Equivalency Basic Climbing Course

PLEASE READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING:

Equivalency is a path for experienced climbers who have not taken the Mountaineers Basic Climbing course to gain access to and participate in many of the Mountaineers climbing activities. These activities may include but are not limited to alpine scrambles, basic level climbs, climbing seminars, and additional/advanced climbing courses.

Given that The Mountaineers is not a professional guide service, the process is necessarily somewhat bureaucratic - this allows us to get to know you better and for you to become connected to the Mountaineers climbing community.

REQUIRED EXPERIENCE

• 5 unique alpine climbs. A minimum of two (2) glacier climbs, and two (2) multi-pitch rock climbs (5.0+) combined with formal training. -OR-
• Successfully completed all Mountaineers basic climbing instructional activities within the past 5 years but was not able to complete your graduation climbs. -OR-
• Formal alpine training within the past 3 years -OR-
• Referral from a Mountaineers Climbing Committee Leader

Equivalency Overview:

Course equivalency may be granted to applicants that:

• Submit a resume of their climbing experience that shows that they have mountaineering training and experience that meets or exceeds the requirements for course graduation, and
• Demonstrate through a practical examination, online testing, and through in-field demonstration, proficiency in the required skills for course graduation, and
• Demonstrate physical fitness by completing a climbing conditioner with The Mountaineers, and
• Participate in Mountaineers Climbs to demonstrate competency in the mountains, and
• Successfully complete courses in: Wilderness First Aid, Navigation, Avalanche Awareness, Low Impact Recreation, and Stewardship.

The Kitsap Equivalency Committee will follow a standard equivalency process.

Day 1 Test (At Hurricane Ridge or similar outdoor venue)

• Foundations (knots and hitches associated with glacier climbing)
• Glacier travel
• Crevasse rescue (3:1)
• Placing snow anchors
• Ice axe self-arrest
• Belay on snow; carabiner ice axe, sitting hip, and running

Day 2 Test (At McCleary Cliffs or similar outdoor venue)

• Foundations (knots and hitches associated with rock climbing)
• Top rope climbing
• Top rope belay
• Multi-pitch climbing
• Escape a belay
• Rappelling
• Belay a leader
• Ascending a rope with Texas prussik

Basic Equivalency:

Equivalency will be granted to students who:

• Demonstrate through a practical examination, online testing, and through in-field demonstration, proficiency in all required skills.
• Complete a Mountaineers Navigation Course or Equivalent.
• Complete the Mountaineers online Avalanche Awareness course, or similar.
• Complete the Mountaineers online Low Impact Recreation Course, or similar.
• Complete a Wilderness First Aid Course (or show current certification)
• Complete a climbing conditioner with The Mountaineers
• Participate in a Stewardship activity (6-8 hours is duration).
• After receiving student status, successfully complete two (2) Basic Mountaineering climbs.
• One (1) Glacier
• One (1) Rock

Required Skills:

• General: Equipment and Clothing; Packing Wisely; Ten Essentials; Mountain Weather, including lightning; Etiquette & ethics on crowded climbs; Decision Making Skills; Teamwork; Risk Management & Mitigation.
• Knots: clove hitch, rewoven figure 8, figure 8 on a bight, prusik hitch, autoblock hitch, butterfly knot, square knot, water knot, double fisherman's knot, girth hitch, munter hitch, double bowline, single bowline, Klemheist hitch, overhand loop, overhand slip knot, mule knot, munter-mule-overhand (MMO). Creating texas prusiks.
• Anchor systems: Recognizing master and shelf points. Properly connecting to both. Placing snow anchors including pickets, bollards & T-Slot; Running belays on snow; Mid-clip vertical picket anchor.
• Belaying: Toprope belay with PBUS on a device; Lead belay with a device using PBUS.
• Belay Escape: successfully escape the system utilizing proper methods.
• Rappelling: extended rappel on an ATC; Sit & Spin Rappel; Autoblock; Fireperson Belay, arm.
• Rock Skills: Strategies for avoiding party-caused rock fall; Rock Climbing Techniques. Following a leader including cleaning pro on a multi-pitch climb. Proper climbing commands.
• Snow Skills: Avalanche Awareness; Snow Emergency Shelter Construction; Ice Ax Self-Belay; Snow Travel and assessing runout; Self Arrest using feet (with a discussion of scenarios where using feet could be dangerous); Snow Camping
• Glacier Travel: Shortening the rope on a glacier climb (Kiwi Coil vs putting the rope in the pack); Roped Glacier Travel
• Responding to a Crevasse Fall: Roping up for glacier travel; Holding the fall; Anchoring the rope including backup; Communication between ropemates; Safely approaching the crevasse; Communication with fallen teammate; Making a plan; Executing a raising system
• Crevasse Rescue Raising Systems: All students will learn both 3:1 Z-pulley and 2:1 drop-loop C-pulley. Students will demonstrate proficiency in 3:1 raising system.
• The Applicant will be granted Student status once proficiency is demonstrated in all required skills. Once all other requirements are met, the Student may apply for graduation and receive Course Equivalency.

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Climbers wishing to obtain Equivalency should submit a comprehensive climbing resume with relevant climbing experience and education related to scrambling, rock climbing, and glacier summits to point of contact listed on course page, expressing interest. You should include the peak / route / date / your role (i.e. private, guided, leading or following) and whether or not the climb was successful. In addition, please note any of the other requirements that you have already completed. If your resume appears to have experience and training equivalent to that of graduates of our course, you will be invited to sign up for the Equivalency Skills Assessment. At the assessment the climber's knowledge and skills are tested.

A document containing references for techniques we teach at our field trips is available to equivalency applicants and will be provided prior to the evaluation. In the evaluation, the standard of comparison will be the skills and experience required of a graduate of the basic alpine climbing course. The specific techniques you demonstrate do not have to be identical to those in our classes, however they do need to be safe as defined by the Mountaineers, effective and modern. A typical successful candidate has completed a comprehensive formal climbing course and has extensive recent technical mountaineering experience.