Andy Cahn
Cresting the ridge after a long climb, we stand enchanted. Ahead of us stretches a gorgeous fjord. Across the way, cliffs crash into the sun-sparkled water. To the right, a valley ringed by mountains rises from the fjord’s head. To the left, the mouth of the fjord opens to the sea. Coastal clouds cast shadows that dance across the water.
This scene was one of many stunning views I enjoyed during last summer’s backpacking Global Adventure to eastern Iceland. It was my first time participating in a Mountaineers Global Adventure; I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I soon learned that these trips are as much about making friends as they are about seeing amazing sights.
The first half of the trip involved four days of hiking along the Viknaslóðir trail, from hut to hut and from fjord to fjord. Each day, we hiked up and over the edge of one fjord and down to the next (except for one day when we did that twice). Our hut accommodations were primitive but pleasant. Without running water or electricity, we drew water from nearby streams.
The second half of the trip also involved four days of hut-to-hut hiking as we traversed the Lónsöræfi mountain range. We started in the highlands, where we skirted the edge of Europe’s largest icefield, Vatnajökull (covering ten percent of the country), then descended to the coast through a stunning canyon. On this section of the trail, we were met with strong, cold, and dry winds coming off the icefields. The terrain was barren; very few plants survive the desiccating winds. Large boulders anchored the huts and outhouses to prevent the winds from toppling them.
Smiles at one of Iceland's many waterfalls.
Because Iceland is almost completely denuded of trees, we enjoyed panoramic views nearly the entire trip. And with ubiquitous fresh basalt cliffs and bountiful rain, waterfalls abound. You can scarcely stand anywhere in the country without seeing a waterfall. One day, we saw ten within a five-mile section of trail.
Over the course of ten days, our band of Mountaineers became fast friends. We bonded over shared experiences such as helping each other cross ice-cold streams, challenging each other to try hákarl (fermented shark meat), soaking in hot springs, and gawking at amazing sunsets. (To keep the friendships fresh, our group even held a reunion dinner in January.)
I particularly enjoyed the contrast between the verdant lowlands covered in grasses, lichens, and Arctic cotton, and the desolate uplands barren of greenery. My favorite snapshot from the trip is a photo of a vast grassy plain rising to a distant chain of mountains. In the foreground, you can see ghostly images midstep in the journey from strangers to friends.
Interested in your own international experience? The Mountaineers offers a number of Global Adventures trips led by experienced volunteers to help you explore the world. For more information, visit mountaineers.org/globaladventures.
This article originally appeared in our summer 2025 issue of Mountaineer magazine. To view the original article in magazine form and read more stories from our publication, visit our magazine archive.
