Sea Kayak - San Juan Islands from Anacortes

Trip Report

SIGHTED: SEAL, ORCA, EAGLE, PORPOISE, HUMMINGBIRD, CORMORANT, MERGANSER, GREAT BLUE HERON, KINGFISHER, PIGEON GUILLEMOT, CANADA GOOSE, MALLARD, SCOTER, COOT

I had stayed the night in Lake Stevens and left little after 0700 to drive to Cap Sante, arriving about an hour later.  Linda called me to tell me that there was no 5:30 AM ferry so she was late, no harm done today.    We parked our cars in the lot that was signed “Cars Only” just west of the large grey building just west of the parking lot for the park. After a brief huddle we launched an hour late at 1000.  Nelson had called and texted to tell me that he had strained his right hand/wrist loading his boat but figured he would come anyway.  I had fallen during a walk on Thu night, scratching up and blood blister on my left hand and a slightly sore wrist.  I wore a brace when not paddling which helped. 

 

It was overcast and quiet but practically no boats as we skirted the big tanker getting loaded up at the refinery and entered the increasingly narrowing channel. You can’t head straight down when you turn the corner as it will take you to the back of a small bay. I followed the line of markers to stay in the middle and as it got narrower we moved to the left.  A few boats came out which was helpful in pinpointing exactly where the Channel came out. It was all pretty shallow and the water a muddy brown the closer we got to the 20 bridge.  Nobody wanted to stop at the boat ramp under the bridge and once past there we were immediately met up by a group of about 10 paddlers from the Hole In the Wall gang.  We paused briefly for hello before going our separate ways. 

 

We passed up a couple of well remembered beaches but nobody opted to get out and we continued on and soon were passing the waterfront houses and then stores/restaurants of La Conner. I was delighted to see the manmade waterfall cascading from the dock of a restaurant and took three gleeful trips underneath it.  We paused at the public dock but it was right before the bridge to the Swinomish Reservation and therefore only a very short distance to the public boat ramp underneath the bridge where we stopped at 1230 for lunch. The  Honey Bucket was there just past the curve in the road which we used when having lunch at the picnic table at the top of the boat ramp.  The Hole in The Wall group returned but left after packing up. Nelson and I walked up to Calico Cupboard where we drooled over the bakery goods before he very kindly bought three lip smacking fresh baked cinnamon buns to be shared through the two days by all.

 

It had actually rained during our lunch but it stopped after we packed up and took off about an hour later.  It didn’t return for which we were all very grateful. We rounded the south opening of the channel to admire the beautiful houses and carvings high up on the hill on the Swinomish side.  We were trying to see where the portage area was in the jetty going along the south side of the channel but were not sure if we found it.  The last I had heard it was blocked by driftwood but that was last year I think. 

 

Nobody opted to stop at Goat Island and once it looked like we were clear of the mud flats on the right we turned and headed north in the increasingly bright sunshine.

It didn’t seem to take very long to reach Hope Island (North).  We had noticed two kayakers headed over that way and found them in the cove where the WWTA site is located.  The site was empty and the lady told us that they were not staying.  She also said that Skagit Island had looked like it was empty also when they passed by.  We wasted no time to belt out the next mile to get over there and found to my great satisfaction that we would have the whole island to ourselves. We pulled up on the pretty beach and immediately unloaded our boats and set up our tents on the east end.  I found a wad of feathers still attached to each other on the trail walking to the clean and stocked vault toilet. It’s located next to another large and very nice camping area that would be ideal on a very hot day or in the rain. Linda and I opted for the semi open area by the picnic table on the north side with Nelson and Sue on the more exposed point.

 

Linda chose to stay in camp while the rest of us hopped back into our boats for the short paddle over to Kiket Island to check out the Kukatali Preserve.  There is an extensive spit between the islands that can make for a bit of chop going over.  Boaters are restricted to land only on the south shore and all visitors of any kind are denied access to Flagstaff Point additional tombolo on the west end.  We pulled our boats up next to the extensive driftwood to find a small path that took us to some info boards along a trail written in English but also with the Swinomish identification of the area that we were looking at.  Eventually we went up the trail a little farther to find a smoothly mowed large area with fragrant Nootka roses and lovely trees, some non-Native. 

I’m not sure if this is the site of the original house, the mill or both. It would have been a nice place to lie down for a nap, let alone pitch a tent!  There were a few other people wandering around and after a little time spent there we headed on back to our boats.  The water had quieted down and the sun fully out as we quickly got back to our own beach.  The birds were very busy with eagles flying directly over our heads and going back and forth between the two islands. We figured there was a nest in the tree by the bathroom and their calls and squeaks were a welcome soundtrack for the rest of our stay there.  A big hummingbird paused for a bit in the tree close to our table before going on. 

 

We cooked and ate our dinners at the picnic table before washing up.  I had brought wood and set up a fire but by the time I had it lit the others had all gone to their tents for the night.  So it was just me warming my toes as I read over a nice fire. 

At one point I looked up to see a beautiful full moon peeking through the clouds and trees at me so I got up and walked to the point to take a picture of it and the beautiful path of light over the quiet water. 

I kicked out and covered the fire and went into my tent around 10 PM.  There was a dog barking across the water as there are plenty of houses around Similk Bay immediately to our north along with the houses along the Swinomish shores.  Yet somehow this peaceful little island felt quiet and isolated shared by just us and the birds.  I shoved my earplugs in and went to sleep.

It was very nice to wake up in my dry tent and the sun rays were shining on it when I got out of my bag a little before 0800.  We shoved off right on time at 0900 to head west in the rippling water on the dying ebb to the beckoning bridge spanning Deception Pass. Curious seals followed us almost all the way.  Sue and Linda went first with Nelson following and me in the rear snapping pictures. 

A chubby seal lay quietly on the rocks almost just below the bridge; it is the first time I have seen one there.  We gave her a wide berth and paddled as quietly as possible and while she watched us closely she didn’t seem alarmed or leave her perch. 

I had stopped paddling and so the now beginning whispers of the flood could be felt by the time I had cleared the bridge area.  There were a few fishing boats there; I wondered how long they would stay put.  A bio break was needed at the first beach on the right. The current was building but was not a problem as we rounded the rocks but I heard on the radio a conversation of somebody’s boat looking like it was already getting pushed into the rocks!  Linda and I got stuck on some rocks ourselves just outside Bowman Bay but a handy bow from Sue got me off and Linda was able to get hers off on her own. 

 

Now one of my favorite parts of this trip began: the caves between Bowman Bay and Biz Point.  I didn’t have a helmet so was only able to do one but Nelson and Sue took advantage of some of the others to go in and get some shots.  There was hardly any wave action at all so it there was plenty of viewing opportunities and time well spent.

 

We pulled out on the beach with some handy canoe ladders a couple of miles up for a break. There are a couple of huge houses up on top but are not visible from the beach.  An eagle on one of the rocks was easily seen though.

 

After about 15 minutes we packed up and made the crossing from Biz Point to Burrows Island in only half an hour in the ideal conditions. It didn’t take much longer to follow the pretty shoreline and fortunately not disturbing the seals that were lying on the exposed rocks along it to get to the lighthouse.  We pulled up on the beach at 1230 and followed Nelson’s lead up the (somewhat challenging for some of us shorter legged folk) rocky bank to use the stairs to get up to the top.  I was greeted by the smell of paint; some workers were there doing some clean up around the place.  We headed over to the picnic table with its beautiful view west with the blue water and brightening sunshine to the Strait, Lopez Island and beyond. 

 

After a bit we became aware of two large boats with a lot of people on them down below us on the right with a smaller boat—a fishing boat??—just west of it.  We found out why—a bull fin from an orca surfaced and within seconds at least two juvenile orcas surfaced close by.  The boats immediately moved in and we could hear the noise from them up where we were.  The pod slowly moved south past us and we were furious to see how closely they were being followed.  At times it looked like the smallest boat was almost on top of one of the babies.  Eventually that boat left and another power boat came by heading north mercifully close to the rocks below us to avoid the pod.   It took about 10 minutes altogether for everything to clear out.  The lighthouse crew had come out to see and said that it is not very often that they see orcas that close to the lighthouse. 

 

After about 45 minutes we packed up and made our careful way back down to the beach and shoved off at 1330.  Now the flooding current was becoming obvious as we continued north past more rocks, seals and the chop getting around Green Point. 

This point is always confusing to me as it is not very often I approach it from this side.  Washington Park and the boat launch are in a cove that is completely obvious from the other direction! 

 

Nobody needed to stop so we kept going in the quickening current.  Our timing was perfect approaching the Anacortes Ferry dock; the ferry pulled out just as we were approaching so no waiting this time around.  About half way down Guemas Channel just down a half mile or so from the ferry dock the accessible shoreline comes to an abrupt end.  Nobody still didn’t need to get out so we pushed on down the narrowing channel to get around another large boat—it looked like a mini cruise ship—that was in one of the boat repair docks on the east end.  The current spun us on around the point where we could look up at some really large houses on the rocky shoreline.  A woman came out of one of them and said that the orcas had been seen that morning from the houses. 

 

Sometimes the current feels like it is against you, now with you getting around that point with the water slapping up against the rocks.  It felt like a long time ago that we had headed out past the refinery instead of only the morning before.  We made fast time getting back finally feeling a bit of the southerly breeze on my face to the launch point where we slid up on the beach at 1530.  The waterline was higher than when we had left it beside some boys that were throwing rocks into the water. There was still plenty of parking adjacent to the loading zone and with excellent teamwork it took less than an hour before we were loaded up and changed in the nearby clean and well stocked bathrooms by the kayak rental shop.  We had a brief huddle where no complaints were made and many thanks exchanged. It was just Linda and I who went to dinner at The Rockfish Café before heading home.

 

This was just a wonderful trip: Skagit Island was as good a camping spot as I had hoped it would be and is going head to head with Blake Island as one of the supreme jewels in our lovely Salish Sea to head for in a kayak!    This is my fourth time around Fidalgo Island and I do recommend doing it clockwise.

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