Intermediate Glacier Equivalency - Mountaineers Tacoma Program Center

6:1 Crevasse Rescue 

Quick Snow Belays

• Prussik Belay
• Carabiner Ice Axe
• Sitting Hip Belay
• Butt Axe Belay

6:1 Crevasse Rescue Scenario

Instruction videos that we follow can be found at the bottom of the below website.

https://sites.google.com/view/tacomaintermediate/glacieralpine-ice-module/glacier-cs-2

1. Arrest the fall
2. Communicate
3. Place first piece of anchor
4. Transfer the load
1. Clip sling to bight knot
5. Reinforce anchor with second piece
1. Equalize the two anchors using the block and tackle
6. Check on fallen climber and devise a rescue plan
7. Descend to Fallen Climber
1. Auto-block on strand
2. Rappel Device oriented with teeth engaged and guide loop closer to climber
3. Rappel Down to Fallen Climber
8. Clip the Climber
1. Tie Catastrophe Knot below autoblock
2. Clip loop to fallen climber
9. Reascend Rope
1. Attach microtraxion or prussik above device and attach foot loop using carabiner
2. Clip carabiner to guide loop on device
3. Stand up on foot loop and clip device to belay loop to engage guide mode
4. Remove autoblock and catastrophe knot
5. Redirect pull strand through foot loop carabiner (optional)
6. Stand and Pull
7. Readjust microtraxion or prusik
8. Repeat 6 and 7 until back at anchors
10. Execute Remainder of 6:1 system

5 PM at he club house.