Two-Person Glacier Travel and Solo Crevasse Rescue

Clinic

Two-Person Glacier Travel and Solo Crevasse Rescue - Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

Hands-on crevasse rescue practice in 2-person teams for 2nd and higher-year Intermediate Students and Climb Leaders.

Info
COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Wed, Feb 5, 2020
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Casual

Please be geared up and ready to start at 6pm in the basement of the Seattle Program Center. We have the basement reserved from 5:30pm. After a brief demonstration, if the weather permits, we will move to the North Wall, where participants will take turns performing the full crevasse rescue scenario, including rappel into and ascension out of a crevasse, with an instructor present. Please come prepared to spend much of the evening outside. We will wrap up by 9pm.

We often travel over glaciated terrain to get to rock or ice routes that we prefer to do in parties of two. During this hands-on clinic, you will learn how to:

  • Setup efficiently for glacier travel as a single two-person team: distance between climbers, knots on the rope (when to use, how to space), tie-in, kiwi coil, required gear.
  • Arrest a fall and build a SERENE anchor while in arrest position, without relying on external help.
  • Rappel into the crevasse, provide first-aid, attach drop loop, and reascend; use runners to extend drop loop if needed.
  • Setup a 6:1 mechanical advantage system and haul the fallen climber out of the crevasse while removing slack.

Please note:

  • This clinic is designed for second and higher-year Intermediate Students and Climb Leaders. Students who just started their first year of the Intermediate program would be learning similar techniques during their Intermediate glacier travel modules, and should not be signing up for this clinic.
  • You will be working as a 2-person team throughout the entire clinic. Please sign up with a partner.
  • The total capacity may be extended if we find a sufficient number of instructors.

Please study the course handout beforehand.

Route/Place

Mountaineers Seattle Program Center


Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • 2 tools
    • 2 pickets
    • ATC Guide or equivalent
    • pulley
    • progress capture (tibloc, microtraxion, etc., or you can use your ATC)
    • 2 hero loops
  • 3 single runners (60cm), 2 doubles (120cm), 1 triple (180cm)
  • cordelette
  • 4-5 lockers, 4 non-lockers
  • helmet
  • harness
  • headlamp
  • layers
  • rain gear

 

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