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WCR - Small Party Rescue

Field trip: Winter Mountaineering & Advanced Crevasse Rescue

WCR - Small Party Rescue - Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

Small Party Rescue: raising systems.

Contacts

Rodrigo Toso
Rodrigo Toso
Primary Leader
  • Casual
  • FULL (6 capacity)
  • FULL, 1 on waitlist (6 capacity)
  • Sun, Sep 21, 2025 at 8:20 PM
  • Tue, Mar 24, 2026 at 5:00 PM
  • Cancellation & Refund Policy
  • iCal Google
The objective of this activity is to get you proficient at (1) raising the subject from a crevasse using multiple mechanical advantage settings, and (2) connecting what we learned in the previous lectures to lower an attendant to the subject and then raise both. If time allows, we will try to cover (3) adding more mechanical advantage to a drop-C loop, which is used when you have executed the lower via rappel-to-ascend (to be covered outside of SPR), and (4) knot passes on lowering systems.
Homework
Read the following slides from the technical handout:
  • System setup: Slide 33.
  • Recap attendant tie-in: Slides 42-43.
  • Recap descent control (lowering): Slides 34-40 but without the middle device since we won't be lowering two people. We also use a klemheist to MMO instead of the prusik to carabiner to MMO in the slides.
  • Raising systems: Slides 45-49.
  1. Mechanical advantage: Slides 29-30.
  • Lower-to-raise transition: Slides 50-56.
  • Knot passing: Slides 62-66.
    • In many slides, there's a different load-releasing hitch (LRH) being used, e.g. the munter-mariner, but focus instead on the reason why it's there: it's a releasable progress capture! Any LRH will do, including the klemheist-to-MMO or the purcell prusik.
    When you get to the lower-to-raise slides, don't pay attention to that cluster of carabiners; in your mind, substitute those with your ATC or a munter like we learned before.

    Seattle Program Center at 1800, Room TBD

    Badges

    students will earn:

    Route/Place

    Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

    Roster
    Required Equipment

    Required Equipment

    It's ground school again. Please bring your glacier rack: harness, guide ATC, 5 lockers, 4 non lockers, anchor material, cordelette, and as many prusik loops and pulleys as you have. We will be in the basement, so dress accordingly.

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