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Trip Report    

Global Adventure - Dayhike and Explore the National Parks, People, Food, and Culture of Cuba

14 day immersion into the mountain, wetlands, beach, village, urban, farm, bird life, wild life and cultural life of Cuba

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • If you are planning another Mountaineers Global Adventure to Cuba, please contact Trip Leader. For a detailed report of “Route Conditions”, check out my six-page report here. Topics in that report: trail conditions, weather & trails, transportation, accommodations, electrical power, water, food, guides, money, tipping, cell phone & internet, medical assistance & insurance and insect-borne disease. Much more information and copies of participant briefings can be provided by contacting the Trip Leader.

     The following are a few lines from the longer “Route Conditions” report available at the above link:

    • Hiking trails & hazards –Principal hazards were mud, plants with thorns and the occasional encounter with large livestock used for agricultural labor or riders on horseback.
    • Weather & trails - Two weeks before our arrival, Hurricane Rafael made landfall in the western part of Cuba, including the Vinales area which we visited. Heavy rainfall associated with Hurricane Rafael reduced Vinales and other hiking routes to slippery mud wallows. When muddy, hikes were quite messy and bypasses were frequent.
    • Weather – Temperatures were in the 80’s with high humidity every day. Sunshine & blue skies every day, except it rained the evening of Day 10
    • Transportation - traveled in a private, air conditioned, twenty passenger bus between Havana, Vinales, Playa Larga, Cienfuegos and Trinidad. Not counting trips back/forth to trailheads, restaurants or cultural stops, approximately 750 miles were driven.
    • Accommodations – all accommodations had ensuite bathroom were clean, of modern décor and in picturesque, convenient locations.
    • Electrical Power - Four weeks before our arrival and also on the last day of our trip, the entire country experienced a national power grid failure. Outside of Havana, power was supplied by household-sized, diesel-powered generators with intermittent, apparently randomly scheduled, power from the grid.  Status of Cuban power can be monitored here - https://www.unionelectrica.cu/nota-informativa/
    • Water - Due to aging infrastructure, there is a shortage of potable, municipal water. For consumption, we only used boiled or bottled water.
    • Food – Breakfasts were at 6-6:30am, provided by the homestay hosts. Dinners always happened in a restaurant. Our group included those who were gluten-free, pescatarian or vegetarian. These dietary needs were accommodated.
    • Guide Service - Due to US sanctions, there is no communication between US and Cuban financial institutions. This required use of a non-USA guide service to arrange & prepay the in-Cuba transportation and logistical arrangements. For travel to less populated areas outside of Havana and for communication with homestay hosts or other situations, fluency in Spanish is needed. Our group was required by the Cuban government to have a Cuban national guide that accompanied the group every day and a Cuban national driver for the bus.
    • Legal considerations for Mountaineers group travel to Cuba - This Mountaineers trip legally traveled to Cuba under the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) general license authorization category, “Support for the Cuban People”. Participants were instructed by the trip leader on how to obtain visas, complete the Cuban customs form, purchase air travel to Cuba that met with Cuban government requirements, as well as how to comply with US sanctions and OFAC rules.
    • Money –Our homestay hosts expected to be paid in US dollars. Some restaurants wanted to be paid in US dollars and others wanted to be paid in Cuban pesos. Our own currency exchange was handled by our European guide through his Cuban tour operator links.
    • Tips – Guide’s income is dependent on tips. There is little or no salary. USA visitors are expected to provide 10% or more for tips. Many people needed to be tipped on this trip.
    • Cell phone & internet – Everyone on the trip purchased a physical or virtual Cuban SIM card (https://suenacuba.com/tourist_sim_card_cuba_buy) These cards worked for 4 out of the 8 participants to connect to the internet and use WhatsApp. The problem was not the SIM card. The problems were settings in the cell phone.
    • Medical assistance & insurance – the Cuban government requires purchasing a Cuban insurance policy. The Cuban insurance policy does not meet the Mountaineers requirement and is only useful in hospitals/clinics operated by the Cuban government. Medical services provided by Cuban hospitals/clinics that exceed the amount provided by the Cuban insurance policy must be paid in cash.
    • Insect-borne disease – at the time of this trip CDC issued a Level 2 Travel Notice due to Oropouche virus outbreak in Cuba and the first illness in someone recently travelled to Cuba was reported in the US. The virus is spread by the bite of infected midges and mosquitoes. Herbal and citronella-type insect repellents were not effective. Ticks know to carry disease were present.

Number of participants – Including the Trip Leader, there were 8 participants in this trip. Two weeks before departure two people withdrew from the trip. They received no refunds.

Trip Favorites - During the Farewell Dinner, a participant asked everyone to share their favorite parts of the trip. Here are the memories that were shared:

Cuban people are friendly & welcoming
The Vinales Valley
Contrast between Vinales & Trinidad
Trip touched on every outdoors and cultural aspect of Cuba
La Batata Cave hike
Catamaran trip to Cayo Leguano on the free day
Sunset at the restaurant, Finca Agroecológica El Paraiso, in Vinales
All the different foods & the many times it was the same ingredients but different tastes
Cuban people very resilient and adaptable
Havana architecture
Variety of activities
All the different caves that were visited
Overnight at Hacienda Codina
Playa Larga homestay accommodations
Cooking class with chef
Russian truck ride
Sounds of the forest
Hiking trails that were so different than Washington’s
Feeling very safe
Our Cuban national guide and Cuban driver, they were amazing
Cuban national guide, Enio, was very attentive, food information & service
Other Cuban drivers on the road are not reckless, traffic was not a concern

 Day 1  Meet at Miami Airport’s Cuba Ready checkpoint and flight together to Havana. Welcome dinner and currency exchange required a garbage bag for each of us to contain all the Cuban peso resulting from $300USD.

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Welcome Dinner
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Currency Exchange with Marcel our 24/7 English speaking guide

 Day 2 Walking tour of Havana, street artists & street music, salsa dance class, cooking class

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Posing with local women dressed in traditional clothing
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Street artist captures caricature
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Enjoying Cuban rhythms
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Salsa class
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Cooking class

Day 3 Private bus to Vinales, walking tour of Soroa botanical garden, hike to San Tomas Cave & walking tour of cave, hike to Soroa viewpoint cancelled due to hurricane damage

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Our private bus

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Hiking the various levels of San Tomas cave
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San Tomas cave sparkling walls
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Hiking to San Tomas cave
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Too much debris & windfall to complete hike to Soroa viewpoint
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One of the many orchids at Soroa botanical garden

Day 4 All day hike Los Acuaticos trail in Vinales valley, visit coffee & sugar farm, visit tobacco farm

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Crushing sugar cane with hand crank crushing machine
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Lunch stop at restaurant during the hike
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Hiking route goes through the limestone mogotes
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Hiking route bypass of muddy trail
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Hiking amongst the mogotes in the Vinales valley
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Group celebration of fabulous view above Vinales valley
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Trying out the local cigars

Day 5 Morning birdwatching with guide, hike the “3 Valleys” in Vinales area, sunset viewing & evening meal at Finca Agroecologica El Paraiso. Check-out of Vinales homestay. 

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Consulting field guide with the Bird Watching Guide
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Seen along the hike: locals thrashing rice
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Seen along the route: local bathing his horse
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Hiking rest stop at a viewpoint
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Sunset dinner at the finca
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Saying goodbye to homestay host family

Day 6 Presentation on Cuban conservation efforts, walking tour of Criadero de Cocodrilos breeding facility, museum tour at Central Australia cancelled due to closure by Cuban government. Check-in to Playa Larga homestay

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Conservation talk
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Hatchling Cuban crocodiles
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Full grown Cuban crocodile breeder pair
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Nice teeth!
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La Playa homestay accommodations

Day 7 Birdwatching with guide at Zapata National Park, hike Sendero Enigma de las Rocas trail through jungle forest and cenotes, swimming break at Bay of Pigs, visit a cave to view roosting bats and fish viewing at Cueva de los Pesces 

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Swimming & snorkeling in the Bay of Pigs
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Hiking the trail amongst dense jungle vegetation & crystal clear cenotes

Day 8 Morning visit to hummingbird garden to view Bee Hummingbird (Mellisuga helenae), the smallest bird in the world, and other local birds, Walking tour of Museo Giron, walking tour of Cienfuegos, sunset boat cruise, evening waterfront walk to dinner at Villa Lagarto

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Tour conducted by Enio, our Cuban National Guide, of the museum that presents the Cuban viewpoint on US invasion at the Bay of Pigs

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Walking tour of historic area of Cienfuegos, a UNESCO site
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Waiting in the lobby for our dinner table to be ready
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Sunset cruise in the Bay of Cienfuegos

Day 9 Depart Cienfuegos shortly after sunrise to facilitate early arrival at Guanaroca Lake when birds are most active for lake tour in rowing boat. Continue to Trinidad, check-in to homestay, walking tour of this historic city.

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2-3 passengers per row boat at Lake Guanaroca
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Outside our homestay, busy day in Old Trinidad
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Gregarious children meet us at our bus
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Walking home from dinner, a local invites Sonja to dance in the street

Day 10 Hike to Hacienda Codina with daypack in the Sierra Escambray mountains (leave luggage at homestay), transported by Russian truck to trailhead, visit coffee museum before starting the hike, take side trip to La Batata cave, overnight at Hacienda Codina.

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Buying drinking water from local shop before departure to the mountains
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At a viewpoint stop enroute to TH, Maribeth gets acquainted with local person's pet
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Our vintage Russian truck welcomes us onboard for final leg to the TH.
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We visit cafe and coffee museum located at the TH
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Hiking in Sierra Escambray mountains
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Sierra Escambray mountain trail to Hacienda Codina
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Side trip to La Batata cave
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Arriving Hacienda Codina
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Overnight accommodations at Hacienda Codina

Day 11 Trail too muddy to hike so take Russian truck to higher ground. Hike through Guayanara National Park to Hacienda Gallega for lunch. After lunch, hike to Salto del Rocia waterfall and Deer Lagoon. Then, Russian truck transportation out of the national park, back to Topes Collantes and, via our private bus, back to Trinidad homestays.

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Mud on trail came to wheelwells of the truck. Too much mud for hiking. The ride is called "Russian Massage" due to the bumping, swaying and vibrations of the truck 😏
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Before continuing our hike to Hacienda Gallega, our guide gives a geology talk.
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Slippery trail through the mountain jungle.
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Our local guide (in front) knew the route which was often not obvious to us.
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After lunch at the hacienda, our hike destination were these huge waterfalls

Day 12 Open day in Trinidad. Most of the group goes on optional trip to Cayo Leguano (not part of Mountaineers itinerary) while Trip Leader explores Trinidad.

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Exploring old Trinidad, a UNESCO site
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Souvenir shopping in Trinidad
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Street scene, transporting livestock
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Street scene Trinidad, carrying home groceries
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Street scene Trinidad, multiple options for transportation
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Street scene Trinidad. Freshwater flows down the streets from broken and leaky water pipes, explains the shortage of potable municipal water.
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Enio and Helio, our Cuban national guide and Cuban bus driver, were a joy to be around.

Day 13 Visit UNESCO site, Valle de los Ingenios (Sugarmill valley), walking tour of two former sugar mill plantations & archaeological sites. Afternoon hike replaced by visit to railroad museum and the beach.

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Visit to Train museum to view the locomotives that transported sugar cane from the Valle de los Ingenios (Sugarmill valley)
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Walking tour through one of the historic sugar mill plantations and its museum. Valle de Los Ingenios is a UNESCO site.
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We learned that towers in the plantations were to keep watch on the slave laborers in the fields. Sugarcane calderon in foreground. Someone checking out the embroidery for sale.
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Lunch at the beach.
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Afternoon at the beach on our last day before returning to Havana.

Day 14 Depart Trinidad, drive directly to Havana for more sightseeing, vintage car cruising in Havana and farewell dinner.

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Sightseeing on our own in Old Havana.
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We all take rides in vintage classic cars for a brief driving tour of Havana.
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Group poses with our vintage classic cars as the sun sets in Havana
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Farewell dinner at upscale La Guarida, a former palace.

Day 15 Departure day. We awoke to darkness in our homestay. There was another nationwide power grid failure. Fortunately, the airport had generator power. After breakfast, left for the Havana airport and return flight to Miami. No problems with flight departures.