Trip Report
Basic Alpine Climb - Argonaut Peak/South Route
Long hard day of scrambling, but worth it for the view of the Enchantments.
Carl Lucchese
- Thu, Jul 10, 2025
- Basic Alpine Climb - Argonaut Peak/South Route
- Argonaut Peak/South Route
- Scrambling & Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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- Snow free this time of year through the gully we selected.
- Ingalls Creek can be forded (ankle deep) or crossed by a log to the climbers right.
- Stags are a hazard in the bushwhacking portion of the trip between Ingalls Creek and approximately 5,200'. Be weary on windy days.
- Rock fall is a constant hazard above the tree line. Practice constant vigilance, keep the team close when possible, and wait for others to get out of your fall line before proceeding.
- Bring 2-3 pieces of protection (0.75-1) and webbing/cordelette for the crux pitch.
- Water is plentiful along the well groomed trails and within the class 3-4 gully.
Most of the team slept at the Beverly Turnpike Trail Head (aka the Bean Peak Trail Head for Google purposes) the night before, and everyone was ready to hike by approximately 4:20am. The first five miles of the trail is made up of well maintained trails, following Beverly Creek, and Forth Creek until crossing Ingalls Creek.
While descending to Ingalls Creek we were warned of active tree falls due to the wind by an exiting hiker. In the early morning this presented a concern with wind gusts above 20mph, but most of our forecasts showed the wind would decrease later in the day. However, as we scrambled through the forest the urgency to move was present due to all the creaking we heard from the stags around us.
Arrived to the camp at the end of the Forth Creek trail at 7am. Everyone elected to cross the stream (ankle deep) by the fallen log, easily found to the climbers right. Later in the day to cool off approximately half of us choose instead to ford the creek. We took a short rest in the camp area. Note, this area can comfortably fit one large tent, and perhaps up to three two person tents close together.
Now, this is where careful route finding will be critical. For ourselves, leaving camp we seeked a trail to the right, then went north, following the path of least resistance through a forest of underbrush and fallen trees. To the climbers left (skiers right) this area is more overgrown, so a path to the climbers right (skiers left) is highly recommended.
At approximately 5,700’ we exited the tree line, and followed a route to our left in the alpine. At this point the climb is “choose your own adventure” in sustained steep class 3-4 terrain until the summit block at approximately 8,300’. A team skilled and comfortable in scrambling in such an area is recommended. Rock fall will be a hazard, especially when you find yourself in the chossy zones. However, most of the rock is great for scrambling/climbing. We found our group becoming overly extended on the way up, but everyone found their way to the summit block by noon.
To the climbers left is the gully with the crux chockstone to navigate around. One of the leads led the pitch and set up a fixed line for the group. Two cords and one piece of webbing was found around several large boulders securing two rappel rings. We left our webbing (purple) behind as one of the cords was fraying and the previous webbing was sun bleached. Above this point several more careful class 4 moves are necessary to stand atop the standing stones that lean against each other to make the summit. As always, climb to your abilities, and not everyone in our team was comfortable making these final moves, especially since our turn around time of 1pm was reached.
We rappelled down the crux section. Be careful as the extended rappel could get stuck on the chockstone, and you may pendulum. Descended the way we came. Be extra careful of rock fall due to exhaustion and scrambling down hill. Our team at times became over extended, and we had several incidents of rock falling toward team members. Make sure no one is in your fall line and/or stay close together. Stay to the skiers left once you reach the forest, and constantly re-evaluate your route to make sure you are following the easiest path. We reached Ingalls creak at 8pm.
Returned along the trails with the entire team returning to the trail head by 10:30pm. In total, this climb included 7,126’ gain across 14.8 miles over 18+ hours. It was hard work, but worth it for the views of the Enchantments, a view that can only be earned with the efforts of everyone working together as a team as we did. Definitely a tough, well earned summit, and only with everyone assisting each other, whether that be with navigation, route finding, food, water, spotting, or encouragement could we succeed - this team was awesome.
3 hours from TH to the end of Forth Creek trail.
5 hours from Ingalls Creek to the summit block.
2 hours for ascending and rappelling from the summit.
6 hours to return to Ingalls Creek.
2.5 hours to return to the TH.
Peak Bagger trip report and GPX from Emma Meersman: