Winthrop Glacier Traverse

This lesser-known route approaches Camp 1 of the Liberty Ridge route on Mount Rainier.

Getting there

Drive SR-410 in Mount Rainier National Park to Sunrise Road. It's 5 miles from the northern entrance and 4 miles from Cayuse Pass to the south. Turn onto Sunrise Road and drive 5 miles, turn left onto the White River Campground Road, and continue 1.2 miles to the campground (4,300 ft).

Route

From White River Campground, hike 3.5 mi to Glacier Basin (5,935 ft). Ascend to St. Elmo Pass (7450’) then descend and cross the Winthrop Glacier between 7300-7400’ (approx 1 mile as the crow flies). Beware of rockfall immediately after descending onto the glacier, halfway through, and at the end of the traverse. Note that the traverse crosses longitudinal crevasses and gaping moats. Cross several rock bands after leaving the glacier before getting to Curtis Ridge. Traverse around lower Curtis Ridge and camp near 7,400 ft, at the edge of the Carbon Glacier. There are good flat spots up and down the ridge sufficient for 2-person tents. Expect to melt snow for water after ascending St. Elmo Pass.

Notes

• Rockfall is prolific on the glacier at base of St. Elmo Pass, if more than a team of 3, consider roping up after clearing rockfall hazard but weigh this decision with crevasse conditions at the time. 
• Steel crampons may be preferable if not proficient with transitions as there are several rock island crossings after the glacier.

Additional destinations

This trip can be combined with other nearby destinations:

• Ascent of Inter Glacier to Steamboat Prow and/or Mount Ruth
• Descent of Curtis Ridge to Mineral Mountain and/or Old Desolate

Trip profile

Segment	Time (Hours)	Elevation Gain (Feet)
Trailhead to St Elmo Pass	4-6	+3300
St. Elmo Pass to Curtis Ridge	4-5	+700, -900
Curtis Ridge to trailhead	6-8	+900, -4000'

Equipment

Ice axe, crampons, helmets, pickets, and glacier gear (including glacier rope).

Information for leaders

Permits

A climbing permit is required for trips on glaciers and/or above 10,000 ft. Fees apply. Camping permit required for overnights. Check with Mount Rainier National Park (land manger link below) to ensure you have the required camping/climbing permits.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
• Length: 17.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 4,000 ft
• High Point: 7,400 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Rainier National Park
  Mount Rainier Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: National Park Entrance Fee
• Recommended Party Size: 9
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12