American Border Peak/Southeast Route

Climb one of the "Baker's Dozen" peaks that is just northwest of Mount Larrabee and just south of the US-Canadian border. It's a basic-level alpine rock climb of 9 miles round trip and 2,800 feet of elevation gain.

driving directions

Follow US 542 (Mount Baker Highway) past Glacier. Turn left on Forest Road 3065, which is at the highway maintenance facility. Drive 5 miles to small parking area at the Tomyhoi Lake trailhead. A high clearance vehicle can continue to the Twin Lakes trailhead. The last two miles have some tight switchbacks, rocky sections and deep dips.

approach

From the Twin Lakes trailhead, hike north to Low Pass, then to High Pass. There is marginal camping at High Pass (if snow is present) and in a basin about 3.7 mi from the trailhead (5,600 ft) .

ascent

Traverse from High Pass North, until you reach a notch in the Larabbee/American Border Peak ridge. Pass through and go across slabs, ledges and gullies to a chimney. Climb chimney (or bypass lower half on the right. Ascend to summit ridge and follow northward to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENTTIME (HR)ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to High Pass 2 1,540
High Pass to Summit 5 1,244
Summit to Trailhead 7 2784

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock gear with a few small to medium chocks. An ice axe for the approach in early season.

NOTES

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb
  • Length: 9.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,800 ft
  • 7,994 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13S
  • Green Trails Mt Shuksan No. 14
  • USGS Mt Larrabee
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Basic Alpine Climb - American Border Peak/Southeast Route

Climbing Trip
Rarely offered climb in a gorgeous area. Sorry, but I am not accepting anymore people
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb
Sat, Sep 29, 2018 - Sun, Sep 30, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants on waitlist 1 leader on waitlist
Registration closes Sep 27
Seattle Branch
Trip Reports
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