Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Please wait until registrations opens to send permission requests. Selection of participants and rope lead will be done randomly from those that request permission three days after registration opens so there’s no stress about getting a permission request in the second registration opens. When requesting leader permission, please give examples of your recent conditioning activities, scrambling experience, and alpine climbing experience. If you have a climbing or scrambling resume, Peakbagger profile, or Mountain Project profile, please send those along as well!

The Tooth is an enjoyable climb, with climbing at around 5.4 in difficulty. It is appropriate for Basic students/grads with scrambling experience and rope leads comfortable on 5.6 single pitch trad.

Goals:

1. Be safe
2. Have fun
3. Learn something new
4. Summit the Tooth!

Intensity:

The approach will be taken at a moderate (~2mph) but consistent pace with breaks after specific objective or difficult sections (e.g. after departing the Source Lake trail, last water source in basin, base of climb) and not on a time based schedule. Participants are encouraged to have a source of water and snacks they can consume on the move. The day will be long (~10-12) hours with much of it spent in the sun and being active.

Expectations:

Followers are expected to carry a rope on the approach and some food/water for their rope lead on the climb. Followers should plan to climb with their hiking pack or carry a smaller summit pack that can hold food/water, an extra layer for them and their leader, and the essentials (first aid kit, headlamps, emergency communications, etc). Be a patient follower, be open to learning from your leader, look out for everyone’s safety, and speak up if you see something you’re not sure about. Followers please bring and be familiar with an assisted braking  belay device for belaying the leaders. This may require bringing one single rope assisted device (GriGri, BD  ATC Pilot, or similar) for lead belaying and an ATC for rappelling.

Rope Leads are expected to bring enough trad gear appropriate for the route. Generally the Tooth can be done with a single rack of cams and nuts. However, a few extra comfort cams are encouraged (small-mid sizes) and I will probably bring a double rack for “extra conditioning”. Rope leads should be comfortable up to 5.6 trad single pitch so as not to be maxed out on a multipitch route. The Tooth is “easy” but if you find yourself off route it can be stiffer than 5.4 so some buffer room on climbing ability is warranted. Be a patient leader, teach your follower something new, look out for everyone’s safety, and be open to feedback from your follower.

Everyone is expected to move with efficiency and purpose. This will be a long day and small delays can add up quickly. This does not mean you have to be “fast” and rushed but be thinking ahead to the next transition, task, or need and plan for it. Replenish easily reachable snacks during breaks, fill up a filter bottle at the stream, be ready to get on rappel next with extension, ATC, and hollowblock on your harness, etc. I highly value consistency and conscientiousness over sprinting down the trail in between frequent stops. Everyone must be able to take care of themselves on a long day with food, water, sunscreen, and bio-breaks. Everyone is expected to contribute to the group by helping with route finding, supporting a positive learning environment, and doing our best to maintain a positive group dynamic, even through disagreements or difficulties.

Leadership Style:

I prefer to take a “facilitator” role on trips and encourage group discussion and decision making and allow participants to take on the role they would like to get what they want out of the trip. I will step in as needed to keep the group moving forward, in the case of safety issues, or if no one else wants to take the head of the group. Mostly I’m just stoked to enable people to get out and enjoy the mountains while doing cool things. Having fun and learning new things are the priority and summiting is always the goal but isn’t a requirement for the trip to be successful.

Alpental Parking Lot/Snow Lake Trailhead @ 6:00AM