The Tooth/South Face

Getting its name from the eastbound lane of I-90 views, The Tooth is a classic rock climb on solid rock. It has a few low 5th class moves and an airy “catwalk” traverse on a four inch wide ledge that is a particular attraction. The climb is popular and can be very crowded. Time: trailhead to summit 5-6 hr. It's a great first alpine rock climb.

getting there

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road and follow it to the Alpental parking area (3,100 ft).

APPROACH

Hike up the Snow Lake Trail about 2 miles to a talus slope above Source Lake. Traverse above Source Lake on talus or snow, staying beneath a cliff band. Just beyond the cliff band, head up a steep slope, getting as high as possible before crossing a stream. Scramble into the basin under the east face of The Tooth. Ascend this basin to the second notch south of the South Face of The Tooth. Climb through the notch, then down to the north and back up to Pineapple Pass, the notch between the South Face and the pinnacle to its south.

In early season, an alternative approach is to hike from the parking lot up the valley on the left side of the creek, near Source Lake, ascending snow finger into the basin.

ASCENT ROUTE

At Pineapple Pass rope up and ascend directly up the South Face to a broad ledge about 50 feet below the summit. From here there are three options:  (1) ascend broken rock somewhat to the right of the center face, (2) climb directly to the notch below the summit by a thin left-facing flake, or  (3) go left on a narrow ledge, know as the Catwalk, and then scramble to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel the climbing route or choose the less-used north ridge route.

On the north route scramble about 30 feet north on the summit ridge, then descend a short gully chimney. Follow easy slabs down and north to a major gully. Work 50 feet up to the head of the gully at a narrow notch in the summit ridge. Cross the notch (probably should be belayed), then work north a short distance to an obvious descent gully leading to the north end of the west face. If descending via the north ridge, take ice axes to the summit  as there is sometimes snow on the north side.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Pineapple Pass 2-3 2,100
Pineapple Pass to Summit 3 500
Summit to Trailhead 3

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock gear with a few small to medium chocks. An ice axe for the approach in early season.

Information FOr leaders

Permit information

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail or carry a digital copy on their phone.

Priority Climbs List

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.


  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
  • Length: 5.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft
  • 5,600 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass Gateway No. 207S
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
An oldie but a goodie up the Tooth. Moderate pace. Should be fun.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sun, May 12, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
6 participants on waitlist 1 leader
Registration closes May 9
Tacoma Branch
Owen Gabrielson

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
DAS TOOF for Foothills Climbing. Mentored lead for Erica An Rickard
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Jun 7, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 1 leader
Registration opens May 24
Foothills Branch
Peter Tran

Basic Alpine Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
A Cascade classic! Priority for Annora Ayer's SIG group.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sat, Jun 8, 2024
Prerequisites
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 6
Seattle Branch
John Angulo

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Basic Rock Climb for 2024 graduates of Kitsap Leading on Rock Course (leads) and Basic
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Tue, Jun 11, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Mar 29
Kitsap Branch
Ryan Vancil

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
The classic!
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Wed, Jun 12, 2024
Prerequisites
3 participants 1 leader on waitlist
Registration opens May 20
Seattle Branch
Mark Scheffer

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Holding the date for now. I'll update when I'm ready to populate the climb. Please
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Thu, Jun 13, 2024
Prerequisites
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 1
Foothills Branch
Danielle Graham
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Mentored lead for Frank Chai.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Wed, Jun 19, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens May 20
Foothills Branch
Frank Chai

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Basic rock climb with priority for Bellingham basic course students. Registration will be opened after
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sat, Jun 22, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 2 leaders
Registration closed Mar 10
Bellingham Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Basic Rock Climb for 2024 graduates of Kitsap Leading on Rock Course (leads) and Basic
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Mon, Jun 24, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration opens Apr 5
Kitsap Branch
Ryan Vancil

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Ashish-Daryl Basic SIG rock climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Jul 12, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 10
Seattle Branch
Ashish Rawat
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Basic rock climb for the Mark / Charlie sig. request leaders permission if not a
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sun, Jul 14, 2024
Prerequisites
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration opens Apr 1
Seattle Branch
Greg Nuzman

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Classic rock climb in the Snoqualmie Pass area for Annora's SIG students
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Jul 19, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 1 leader
Registration opens Apr 1
Seattle Branch
Peter Clitherow
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
This climb is for a SIG TBD
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Mon, Jul 22, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 1 leader
Registration opens Jul 20
Seattle Branch
Lauren Allen

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Women's Climb!
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Mon, Jul 29, 2024
Prerequisites
6 participants on waitlist 2 leaders
Registration closes Jul 29
Tacoma Branch
Aleesha Wilson
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
DAS TOOF AGAIN for Foothills climbing. Mentored lead for Mire Kashikura
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Aug 2, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jul 19
Foothills Branch
Mire Kashikura

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Priority to KC/DC SIG. Do not request permission until two months before the climb.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sat, Aug 3, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 1
Seattle Branch
Kiana Ehsani
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Priority to Olympia Branch until August 5. Please do not contact before opening date. When
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Mon, Aug 12, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 8
Olympia Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Prioirty for Everette Basic Students till July 30th other branches opens after the proirity date.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sat, Aug 31, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
5 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 29
Everett Branch
Khrum Kashan
Trip Reports
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