The Tooth/South Face

Getting its name from the eastbound lane of I-90 views, The Tooth is a classic rock climb on solid rock. It has a few low 5th class moves and an airy “catwalk” traverse on a four inch wide ledge that is a particular attraction. The climb is popular and can be very crowded. Time: trailhead to summit 5-6 hr. It's a great first alpine rock climb.

getting there

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road and follow it to the Alpental parking area (3,100 ft).

APPROACH

Hike up the Snow Lake Trail about 2 mi to a talus slope above Source Lake. Traverse above Source Lake on talus or snow, staying beneath a cliff band. Just beyond the cliff band, head up a steep slope, getting as high as possible before crossing a stream. Scramble into the basin under the east face of The Tooth. Ascend this basin to the second notch south of the South Face of The Tooth. Climb through the notch, then down to the north and back up to Pineapple Pass, the notch between the South Face and the pinnacle to its south.

In early season, an alternative approach is to hike from the parking lot up the valley on the left side of the creek, near Source Lake, ascending snow finger into the basin.

ASCENT ROUTE

At Pineapple Pass rope up and ascend directly up the South Face to a broad ledge about 50 feet below the summit. From here there are three options:  (1) ascend broken rock somewhat to the right of the center face, (2) climb directly to the notch below the summit by a thin left-facing flake, or  (3) go left on a narrow ledge, know as the Catwalk, and then scramble to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel the climbing route or choose the less-used north ridge route.

On the north route scramble about 30 feet north on the summit ridge, then descend a short gully chimney. Follow easy slabs down and north to a major gully. Work 50 feet up to the head of the gully at a narrow notch in the summit ridge. Cross the notch (probably should be belayed), then work north a short distance to an obvious descent gully leading to the north end of the west face. If descending via the north ridge, take ice axes to the summit  as there is sometimes snow on the north side.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Pineapple Pass 2-3 2,100
Pineapple Pass to Summit 3 500
Summit to Trailhead 3

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock gear with a few small to medium chocks. An ice axe for the approach in early season.

Information FOr leaders

Permit information

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail or carry a digital copy on their phone.

Priority Climbs List

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.


  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
  • Length: 5.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft
  • 5,600 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass Gateway No. 207S
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Tooth Rock Climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Wed, May 19, 2021
Prerequisites
5 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes May 17
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
The one and only
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Thu, May 20, 2021
Prerequisites
4 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes May 18
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
A classic!
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, May 21, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes May 15
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sun, May 23, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes May 21
Bellingham Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Mid-week climb of a classic. Mentored climb for Danielle Graham
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Wed, Jun 2, 2021
Prerequisites
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens May 26
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Priority for members of Angulo/Dittig/Metz Basic Alpine Climbing Course SIG. Open to others starting May
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sun, Jun 6, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 4
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
The one, the only, The Tooth.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Thu, Jun 10, 2021
Prerequisites
3 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 8
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Weekday climb of a classic
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Jun 11, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 2 leaders
Registration opens May 24
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Englund SIG Climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sat, Jun 12, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 2 leaders
Registration closes Jun 10
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Classic rock climb in the Snoqualmie Pass area.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Tue, Jun 15, 2021
Prerequisites
3 participants 2 leaders
Registration opens May 24
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Day climb of The Tooth.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Wed, Jun 16, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 14
Everett Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Das Toof for Foothills Basic Climbing Students
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Jun 18, 2021
Prerequisites
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration opens May 31
Foothills Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Tue, Jun 29, 2021
Prerequisites
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 15
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Basic mid-week climb of the tooth.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Wed, Jun 30, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
5 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 27
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Thu, Jul 1, 2021
Prerequisites
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 17
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
This climb is intended as an Everett LOR (rope-lead) and Everett Basic Climbing Course (student)
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Jul 2, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 15
Everett Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Priority for Foothills Basic Climbing Course (you have my permission). Open for general registration on
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Sat, Jul 10, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 8
Foothills Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Englund Sig Climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Mon, Jul 26, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
4 participants 3 leaders
Registration opens Jun 9
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
This activity opens on July 6th. All emails received prior to this date will not
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Tue, Aug 3, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jul 6
Olympia Branch

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Climbing Trip
Classic rock climb in the Snoqualmie Pass area
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 3
Fri, Aug 6, 2021
Prerequisites
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 4
Seattle Branch
Trip Reports
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