Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

Open to all. Mentored climb for Apoorv. Basic Grads/Equivalents/Rope Leads can request anytime. Current basic student can request AFTER registration opens. Note: if permits cannot be secured then we would still like to single push (please read leader notes below before requesting permission).

  • Fri, Jun 20, 2025 — Sat, Jun 21, 2025
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2, Basic Experience Climb
  • Challenging
  • Elevation Gain: 6,768 ft

Plan A is the regular overnight alpine climbing, but Plan B would require a little more physically (~7K ascend and descend) so please ensure you're up for either challenges before requesting permissions.

When requesting, please

  1. include any relevant single day big ascends/descends that you may have done (or plan to) recently that  inspires confidence
  2. include a note on your scrambling, knife-edging, ridge-walking comfort level

Cheers 🍻

Shared via email with the final roster closer to the climb.

Plan A (camping permits secured):

  • Saturday, leave the city and arrive at the TH, approach in, reach base camp, set camp, nap
  • Sunday, early rise, summit push, walk out to the TH, drive home

Plan B:

  • Drive nearby/to the TH the evening before and (car) camp
  • Early start, single push from the TH to Summit and back
  • Drive back home
  • TBD single push day depending on weather, please be available for either Saturday or Sunday
Route/Place

Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier



  • USGS Eldorado Peak

    USGS Forbidden Peak

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports