Trip Report

Overall trip stats: 41 miles / 13.8k ft gain / 15.8k ft descent / 4 days

Day 1 | Cascade Pass TH to Yang Yang Lakes

12 miles / 5.5k ft gain / 3.3k ft descent / 13 hours

We started our day bright and early - we had not only a long day of hiking, but also a drive from Seattle along with a car shuttle to do. Our team of 5 met in Monroe around 1am and took two cars to Downey Creek TH. We arrived around 3:30am and left one car, with our change of clothes for after. We all squished into the other car, with 5 incredibly large backpacks and drove to Cascade Pass TH (3,600), an easy drive, arriving at 5:15am. 

We started boots to trail around 5:45am, half of us opting for trail runners, as we made good time up the switchbacks. We made it to Cascade Pass (5,373) at 7:45am, where we switched into mountaineering boots and donned our helmets and ice axes. We followed the easily identifiable heather climbers trail up the ridge and hit snow quickly, by 9am at about 6k ft. We hit a cornice section at 6.2k ft and went climber’s right a little too high on the ridge to get around it, later having to work our way down a scramble. Most teams seemed to stick climber’s left closer to the cliff side to get around cornice. 

When we reached the top of Cache Col (6,903’), climber’s right had a moat that was starting to open up under a cornice overhang and looked punchy so we opted for the left side, up a rocky scramble- this turned out to be a mistake that was rather exposed and had a lot of rockfall risk. Definitely stay right. We topped out on the col around 11:35am, 4 hours from leaving Cascade Pass. 

From here, we walked a short 40min along a trail to Kool Aid lake (6,120), where we took a long lunch and refilled water. We evaluated the Red Ledges from afar, watching a group of mountain goats expertly traverse them. After lunch, and as we got closer, the ledges looked less intimidating. The snow bridge up to them was in good shape, although will be far thinner and more challenging in the next week or so. We were across them in 1 hour from leaving Kool Aid lake (2:20pm). 

From here, we made our way to Middle Cascade Glacier (5,748’), arriving within 2-2.5hrs after leaving Kool Aid (3:45pm). We roped up, although the glacier was in good shape with nothing opening up. 

It took about 1.5hrs to reach the top at Spider–Formidable Col (7,320’) and the view was worth every kick step. Coming over the backside, the snow was easy for plunge stepping, although steep, and we could see the rest of the route to Yang Yang ahead of us. It took about 1.5 hours of traversing, descending and hiking on a heather path to reach Yang Yang Lakes (5,833’) at 7pm, where we found a great site right off the trail, next to a stream. 

Day 2 | Yang Yang Lakes to White Rock Lakes

6.7 miles / 3k ft gain / 2.7k ft descent / 8.5 hours

As can be revealed by most Ptarmigan Traverse trip reports over the last several years, the route leaving Yang Yang Lakes (5852') and gaining the ridgeline is the most difficult and consequential component of Ptarmigan stage three. (Our team combined the typical stages one, to Kool Aid, and two, to Yang Yang, into a single day.) 

We camped close to the north end of the lakes which, after departing camp around 8am, required us to walk south through one or two campsites along a primitive lakeside trail. After passing the southern tip of the southernmost lake, we walked about 900 feet and sharply turned right to roughly 320° ~NNW. 

Upon making this turn, we were greeted by two options: a clear but quite vertical boot pack to the left 280° ~W up a gully to the ridgeline, and a snow/dirt/talus mixed ridge to the right (continuing 320°). We chose to ascend the mixed ridge. At the top of this inferior ridge, Sarah M took point up a high-4th class gully which became quite chossy/sketch but allowed us to gain the superior ridge around 10am. We all agreed this was preferable to the western route.

An overarching theme of the traverse was that with each feature we looked upon from our low vantage, the terrain seemed almost too formidable. The same was true with reference to this ridge. As we became closer to the features, the objectives were tamed. We were fortunate that our route along the ridge was quite obvious for some time. Another theme was the early-season, semi-intact, snow-bridged moat. Every member of our team fell through at some point during July 4th, but due to sound technical execution, our ankles, MCLs, and ACLs were all spared. 

After walking along this obvious trail, we kicked switchbacked steps SSE in the snowfield leading to the Le Conte Glacier sheltered by Le Conte Mountain to the right. Around the time when Sentinel Peak comes into view, our research identified a large swath of highly crevassed glacier that was confirmed on sight. We moved quickly while hugging the right ridge as there was rockfall danger from above and no reasonable left-side option. We reached the base of Le Conte Glacier around 12:40pm and the top of Sentinel Pass (7284') by 2pm.

After passing over Sentinel Pass, and with Sentinel Peak to the left, we gained Lizard Col (6798') by 3:40pm and descended to a short jaunt across and up the South Cascade Glacier to White Rock Lakes Camp (6229'), arriving by 5:15pm, where there were several groups of Mountaineers, stellar views, and windwalled tent sites. While the stats for this day were fairly subdued (6mi, ~3000ft +/-) our team does not recommend that teams combining Ptarmigan 1+2 plan to carry on from White Rock to Itswoot or another objective.

Day 3 | White Rock Lakes to Itswoot Ridge with Dome Summit Attempt

7.9 miles / 3.8k ft gain / 3.7k ft descent / 10.5 hours

We had a little bit of moisture overnight but the sun was shining when we opened our tent flaps on day 3. While we ate breakfast, filtered water, and packed up camp, we looked across the basin wondering how we were going to get across the steep sections under the Dana Glacier. We had not yet decided if we were going to go to climb through Spire Pass to Itswoot and then attempt Dome or if we were going to climb to the Dana-Dome Col. Both routes were visible from White Rock camp.

We started our traverse at 7:20am from White Rock with a little bit of everything…grippy boulder fields, choss and scree, steep climbers trail...there was a steep(ish) climb up a waterfall section that we almost missed but double-backed before descending too far.

The snowfields started at the top of the waterfall section and we roped up shortly afterwards, arriving at the base of the Dana Glacier at 11am. At the fork, we had a group discussion about the pros/cons of both routes. Going to Itswoot (6339') first meant that we could drop our heavy gear and climb Dome with lighter packs; however, it would mean we would ascend an extra 1,600ft and descend an extra 1,800ft. We opted to head straight for the Dana-Dome Col (7480'), which ended up being optimal. The col was 200 ft lower than Spire Pass (7800') and the traverse from Dome to Itswoot ended up being thin and punchy - higher risk for injury. 

Dana Glacier was in great condition with limited crevasse exposure and no notable steeps. We opted to stay high and traverse around the bowl and then up vs. following the tracks of the pair in front of us. The snow was soft enough to kickstep but not too soft to plunge, and most of our group did not wear crampons. Walked across a few crevasses at the top but none were notable enough to traverse around.

Our team reached the top of the Dana-Dome Col (7480') at 12:15pm with stellar views of Glacier Peak. We took our time eating lunch, melting/filtering water, and dropping weight. We planned on stashing our gear at the col, summiting Dome, and returning to either head down to Itswoot or Cub Lake to camp for the night. No running water to be found this time of year.

We started our ascent up the Dome Glacier to Dome Peak at 1:15pm. We ran into another Mountaineers group summiting Dome Peak and several other groups along the way. Dome Glacier was closed and uneventful with a short rock scramble up to the Dome Col, arriving at 2:45pm. Would have taken us less time but we had a lovely, lengthy yap with our Mounty buddies. The clouds had been rolling in and out and were starting to get thicker when we reached the col. We kept our fingers crossed for them to clear for the summit!

The backside of the Dome Col included a 300ft snow scramble to the rocky ridge that would take us to the summit. There was a sketchy snow knife coming off the snow into the ridge that required our full attention. 

The ridgeline had a snow wall on the south side pushing up against the rock. We shimmied between the rock and the snow until we were approx. 50ft from the true summit. The true summit was exposed with class 4 and 5 moves and had a few anchor materials for a rap secured around a boulder that were visible from the ridgeline. We had intended to (and had been advised to by the previous group) to set a handline for the summit. Several groups went without but our group’s level of risk tolerance, especially after 3 long days of climbing, meant that we would definitely have wanted the handline. Unfortunately, we only had 30m ropes and 2 pieces of pro and neither would have been enough to reach the true summit. Fortunately, we were all perfectly content and satisfied with how far we had come. The clouds cleared enough to see some incredible views and to take a few photos. The (almost) Dome Peak summit was reached at 3:10pm. 

The climb back down to the Dana-Dome Col was uneventful. A few spicy rock scramble moves between the Dana Col and Dana Glacier. Arriving back at the col to pack our gear and traverse to Itswoot at 4:10pm.

The traverse from the col to Itswoot entailed thin snow coverage, sketchy punches, and some ups and downs. We all punched through at least once and were grateful to have only done the traverse once. We arrived at a crowded Itswoot Ridge at 6pm with several tents and parties already camped and enjoying dinner. The views were so beautiful, we decided to join them rather than descending down to Cub Lake. Water was abundant and we tried to crush as much of our food as we could, having planned to stay for an extra day. Minimal bugs and spectacular views.

Day 4 | Itswoot Ridge to Downey Creek TH

14 miles / 1.5k ft gain / 6.2k ft descent / 9 hours

We knew from all previous trip reports that today was going to be a long day. We left our campsite around 7:15am and shortly after we came to a fork in the trail. The right path went down a rocky face, the left path shot off wide and disappeared - unable to see where the left path led we chose the rocky path. Being early morning the rocks were wet, mossy, and covered in slime. A fall here would have been an unfortunate 40-foot slide down the rock face. With wedging a trekking pole into cracks to provide some stability and moving at a snail's pace we eventually reached the bottom. Shortly after the trail that veered off to the left above the rocks rejoined us - for future travelers, take the left fork. We then crossed many streams and nice flat wet grassy meadows before reaching Cub Lake around 8:00am.

We briefly stopped at Cub Lake when we ran into another Mountaineers group that did a 3-day Dome Peak climb. After not asking about their experience on the trail on the hike in (foreshadowing) we departed. The hike out of Cub Lake was probably the steepest part of the Traverse. Right from the start you are tiptoeing around the edge of the lake, often on rock, where a slip or fall would leave you soaked. Hiking up the the top of Cub Lake Pass is slow and steep, with climbing over roots and through trees until you eventually make it to the top. 

The path down into the valley from Cub Lake Pass ws uneventful. As the majestic views left us we then began the dreaded slog out. Eventually we reached another fork; you either stay left of Bachelor Creek or cross the creek and go right. During our trip planning we came across some information that said to stay to the left because the right path was all bushwacking. That is incorrect. So very incorrect. Apparently someone had come through and vastly improved the right side, it's now a climbers trail (this was the trail the other group had taken). Without knowing this, we went left. It took us an hour and 12 minutes to go a little over half a mile. There was sometimes-not-really a trail that would disappear midstep only to reappear after bushwacking through trees, and chest high weeds and plants for 20 feet in a different direction. 

It was now 11:00am and after that bushwacking ordeal and crossing the log, the remaining 2.3 miles to Downey Creek were covered in downed trees, maybe close to 70. All of them you had to climb over, some you could climb under - it never seemed to end. But then it did and we reached the confluence of Downey Creek and Bachelor Creek around 1:00pm! We took a longer break here to re-hydrate before starting the final leg. After getting some confirmation that there were some massive tree crossings right ahead of us before it mellowed out, we took off - to the Downey Creek Trailhead! But the tree crossings were no joke. Entire sections of trail, walking platforms, and bridges were covered. It will take some serious WTA work days to clear this section out. 

After this downed tree section the rest of the Downey Creek Trail was uneventful. This whole leg from the confluence to the trailhead is long, about 7 miles through forest. We must have only stopped a handful of times to refill water or grab a quick snack. At this point I think everyone just pressed onwards to get to the cars. Eventually we did reach the cars about 4:15pm; exhausted, bruised, and blistered – but very grateful to have experienced such a beautiful section of wilderness, extremely lucky to have had wonderful weather, and appreciative to have had such a great team to share these memories with. 

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