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Trip Report    

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

We had a nice weather day with a great group for an outing on The Tooth.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The toilets are open.  BYOTP. (Bring your own toilet paper!) The westbound onramp at the Alpental/Exit 52 is closed, so on the return to Seattle, you will need to drive east and get back on I-90 at Exit 53.

    The last easily accessible (not needing to make the transition to rock from snow) running water  is above Source Lake. We filtered water at the end of the Source Lake Trail on the way out and the way back. 

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    Stopping at the end of the Source Lake Trail for a snack and to filter water.

    The first boulder field above Source Lake is snow free. 

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    Crossing the first boulder field

    The second boulder field had easy-to-cross snow. 

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    Crossing the second boulder field above Source Lake

    When making the transition back into the treeline, crossing the final boulder/snow field, we stayed low to avoid crossing thin snowbridges. 

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    We traversed low to avoid crossing this...

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    ...and this.

    Shortly after starting the ascent into Great Scott Basin, we were able to stay on snow most of the way.  

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    Looking up into Great Scott Basin from above Source Lake

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    Looking up into Great Scott Basin

    Participants took turns kicking steps along the way.

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    Almost to Pineapple Pass, led up by our students. Two climbers twinning in bright yellow OA sunhoodies!

    Once we reached Pineapple Pass, we had to cross a rock moat carefully before making it onto the final snow finger.  One could avoid this by staying in the center of Great Scott Basin and traversing above the uncovered rock.  

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    Crossing rock carefully to get to Pineapple Pass

    We did not have much trouble with punching through snow, on either way.  One the return trip, we made sure to retrace our steps, both with visual cues and occasionally referring to the GPX track we kept on the way out. 

    The snow finger is in good shape, and it ends in a 3-foot drop off to the rock.  Some were tall enough to sit on the edge and slide down onto their feet; others employed a semi-au cheval move to get off.

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    Ascending the snow finger


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    Transition from snow to rock

    There is a little bit of snow on the scramble around, but it is easy to cross or to avoid.

    The anchor at the top of Pitch 1 is new and fancy--made out of cordalette with the back side wrapped in webbing.  There is a similar anchor for rappelling at the mid-mountain rappel station.  We built our own anchor at the top of Pitch 2.  There is an existing anchor at the top of Pitch 3 with two strands of cordalette and one strand of webbing.  The tails of the fisherman knots on the cordalettes are not in good shape, but the webbing strand was.  Rappel station at the top of the mountain is in good shape.  

This was a first climb for students from three separate course:  Following on Alpine Rock, Basic Alpine, and Compressed Basic Alpine.  All the students came with fantastic expedition behavior, and they made the trip a pleasure for the leaders. Many thanks to the kind and skilled assistant leaders!

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The team

We got to use a bunch of our alpine skills:  traversing boulder fields, safely navigating between rock and snow, kicking steps in snow, self belay, plunge stepping, (a small amount of) high dagger, rock scrambling, rappelling, pulling ropes, and, of course, 4 pitches of climbing. 

The weather and the views, especially starting at the top of Pitch 3, were the icing on top.  

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One final thought.  The entire area we recreated in yesterday is included in the current Senate Budget plan as part of the public lands sell off, if you take a look at this map. Please take a few moments to fill out this Action Alert so that we can all continue to climb The Tooth for many years to come!