Social: Two-Person Glacier Travel and Solo Crevasse Rescue - Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

Clinic

Social: Two-Person Glacier Travel and Solo Crevasse Rescue - Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

Hands-on crevasse rescue practice in 2-person teams for Intermediate Glacier (Winter Mountaineering & Advanced Crevasse Rescue) Course Graduates and Climb Leaders.

  • Sat, Dec 17, 2022
  • Seattle Climbing Committee
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Casual

We often travel over glaciated terrain to get to rock or ice routes that we prefer to do in parties of two. Also, at times ponder the idea of traveling on glaciers with a partner, either doing the trip yourselves or joining friends on different ropes.

During this hands-on clinic, you will learn how to:

  • Set up efficiently for glacier travel as a single two-person team: distance between climbers, knots on the rope (when to use, how to space), tie-in, kiwi coil, required gear. Reading material will also be provided in advance before we meet.
  • Arrest a fall and build an EARNEST anchor while in arrest position, without relying on external help.
  • Rappel into the crevasse, provide first-aid, attach a rope to the fallen climber, and reascend. Plan for improvising as needed using slings or extending the anchor.
  • Set up a 6:1, 8:1, or 9:1 mechanical advantage system and haul the fallen climber out of the crevasse while removing slack.

After a brief demonstration, we will move to the North Wall, where participants will take turns performing the full crevasse rescue scenario, including rappeling into and ascension out of a crevasse, with an instructor present.

 NOTE: This clinic is designed for  Intermediate Glacier (Winter Mountaineering & Advanced Crevasse Rescue) Course Graduates and Climb Leaders. Basic Climbing Course graduates are advised to register for Winter Mountaineering and Advanced Crevasse Rescue Course which teaches this component and allows for a better transition to hone these skills.

9:30 am at Seattle Program Center (South Plaza)

Route/Place

Mountaineers Seattle Program Center


Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • 2 tools
    • 2 pickets
    • ATC Guide or equivalent
    • 2 pulleys
    • progress capture (tibloc, microtraxion, etc., or you can use your ATC)
    • 2 hero loops
  • 3 single runners (60cm), 2 doubles (120cm), 1 triple (180cm)
  • cordelette
  • 4-5 lockers, 4 non-lockers
  • helmet
  • harness
  • headlamp
  • layers
  • rain gear

 

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