WCR - Two-person Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue - Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

• There are two ropes:
  • A glacier rope from which the rescue is executed (as in: this is the only rope you will have in your 2P glacier travel trip, and you fell in a crevasse, so you are the subject). You will tie into this rope with a rewoven figure 8, then leave enough rope to get you from the bolt on the roof to halfway down the wall. Put a carabiner on the bolt, connect a double runner, and tie the rope to another carabiner in the double runner with a clove hitch.
  • A static line tied to a redundant anchor on the top. You, the subject, will use this line to either rappel or be lowered down the wall until the glacier rope takes all of your weight.
• Now the rescuer begins the rescue sequence by performing a block and tackle between the loaded carabiner and another bolt on the roof to create a redundant anchor.
• Rescuer will rappel to the subject on the other end of the glacier rope, perform first aid, put a chest harness on the subject, clip their chest harness to the rope.
• Rescuer will pre-set some rope rescue system, either drop loop or a z-pulley.
• Rescuer will convert to an ascension system and ascend up. 
• Rescuer will set up a remote master point system.
• Rescuer will set up some raising system that has progress capture.
• Rescuer will haul their subject up.

Seattle Program Center at 1800, North Roof.