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Trip Report    

The Tooth/South Face

Lots of snow left makes for a quick approach on The Tooth, and plenty of opportunity to posthole in the afternoon. Overall, great conditions!

  • Sun, Jun 20, 2021
  • The Tooth/South Face
  • Climbing
  • Successful
  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • 0550 start time from the trailhead for Source & Snow Lakes. Alpental road is now gated at that parking lot, so approaching via the Alpental return lifts is likely out for the season. Largely snow free for the first mile or so, then patchy snow that gets more and more consistent as you reach the trail junction.

    Crossing the terrain around Source Lake required crossing a couple of snow bridges sitting a few feet atop heavily flowing streams from snowmelt. In the morning, very firm and no worries, in the afternoon, a little more suspect. With consistently hot and sunny temps, not sure how long those will hold. Wrapping around Source Lake was straightforward, some rock bands, but mostly snow and gain a snow finger climbers right of Great Scott Bowl to gain the basin. An ice ax was helpful for going up and down this area, but there was no need for foot traction.

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    Basin to the gully for The Tooth is also straightforward and would make a great afternoon ski or glissade! Somewhat of a moat to cross, but one long step onto rock and that's it, and then some snow to walk on to drop down and over to the base of The Tooth. The last 50 or so feet to get to the base is melted out. The entire route is melted out and dry, all rappel anchors are visible and in good condition. We did two double-rope rappels to get off, of course, the last got stuck so had to ascend to sort that out. Busy trail on the way out.

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