We were really lucky to nail a perfect weather window with relatively mild temperatures, no precipitation and only a few clouds. Fantastic views of Shuksan most of the way up.
We started at 6:20 AM (most of us slept at the trailhead the night before) and arrived at Hannegan pass at 8:45 AM. Trail to Hannegan pass is in good shape. Stream crossing are all manegeable without getting wet by careful stepping on rocks. The last stream crossing still has a tongue of snow that can be bypassed traversing high by the water.
We found patchy snow from Hannegan camp and continuous from the pass to the summit of Ruth. The steep slope just past Hannegan pass was completely snow-covered which made it a lot easier than when bare and loose.
We wore crampons from Hannegan Pass to the summit and back. Snow was firm and supportive on the way up and had softened quite a bit at the lower elevations on the descent but still allowing for some good plunge stepping.
Due to a last-minute cancellation due to injury, we ended up with two rope teams of four which still worked well. Just a couple of crevasses are starting to open one directly below our path on the ridge line. There was a well-worn boot path in the snow all the way to the summit. We stayed on the ridge until the large rock formation, then skirted it to the right and then ascended left to the summit.
Last running water available is on the trailhead near Hannegan Camp. This will likely change in the weeks to come.
Even on a week-day, given it was a holiday for some and a good weather day we did see two other groups and a lone skier on the route. On the way back down on the trail we saw a group of hikers who were heading back from Hannegan Peak, and a couple more heading up to the pass.
Climb took less than 11 hours car the car due to the group being well-prepared, confident in their skills, efficient and very
well matched.
A great day with a great group of students that got to practice on a pretty easy climb in preparation for bigger objectives this summer. Wishing them all a fun, safe and successful climbing season!
Photos by Emma Agosta and Robert McCadden.
Emma Agosta
