Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier

July 17-18, 2014

Approach: A number of trees have come down across the path creating an obstacle course.

Glacier conditions were excellent with hardly any crevasses showing. Some snow in lower summit pyramid gully.

Our times were on par with those listed in the route description. We left camp at 3 AM. Upon learning of our earlier start time, the other 2 groups camping nearby switched from 4 AM to even earlier times.

Updates for Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier Route Description: Shuksan is within NCNP with 6 permits available. Both MBSNF and NCNP are 'land managers.' Permits can be obtained at Sedro-Wooley combined FS and NPS building.

While hiking out Friday, a number of apparent guided parties were coming in despite a very poor weather forecast, suggesting this is a favorite and there maybe competition for permits, especially for the weekend.

The route information might mention the SE Ridge as a not-too-much-harder alternative to gully which requires pro but avoids congestion in the gully.

We experienced rockfall from a guided party ahead of us. Struck party member; this easily could have been lethal. No warning yell. Based upon a number of observations it appeared that his client was incompetent and created unnecessary hazards to others. Should not have been on mountain. One guide's webpage indicated, 'No experience necessary.'