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Trip Report    

Little Tahoma/East Shoulder

  • Mon, Jun 22, 2015
  • Little Tahoma/East Shoulder
  • Climbing

Trip report for June 19-21, leader Matt Palubinskas, mentored lead Tristan Roth

Mostly sunny throughout the three day trip with low clouds in the morning below Meany Crest, midlevel clouds in the afternoon between 9000-12000 feet. Freezing level was above 10000 with mild temperatures. Firm snow in the morning, softening up by midday. Little to no wind while climbing nor on the summit.

Summerland to Meany Crest was mostly rock scrambling with some snow. Camped at Meany Crest 2 nights, running water nearby coming off the Fryingpan glacier. Fryingpan and Whitman glaciers had few crevasses open. Above 10200 ft the summit held very little snow making for tiresome scree and rock scrambling with very loose rock and slow climbing. We set up a handline for participants using slings. It took about 40 minutes for 7 people to prussik the line and snap a picture at the summit and return. No rappels on the way down, just cautious downclimbing to minimize abundant rockfall. Summit day took 12 hours from camp to camp at a leisurely pace with frequent stops for rest or adjustments.

A 100lb. boulder was knocked loose by our party about 200 feet above Summerland meadows and very close call as it tumbled past 3 other party members. Matt had made very good judgment by requiring helmets on this boulder field despite the lower angle and close proximity to the safety of the Wonderland Trail.

1 picket was used on a steeper part of Whitman glacier between two crevasses. No rock pro used.