Trip Report
Lane Peak: Lover's Lane
Lover's Lane climb in optimal, stable conditions with great weather.
Paul Wade
- Sat, Mar 8, 2025
- Lane Peak: Zipper & Lovers Lane
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Snow is supportive for kicking steps on approach, climb and descent with minimal postholing. Carried snowshoes but didn't need them.
Route in current conditions was steep snow only with no ice. Carried rock pro and ice screws but only placed a couple of pickets to protect the short downclimb to the rappel tree. Climbed without roping up due to the stable snow conditions.
We combined our 60 meter rope with another team's rope for the rappel into the upper part of the Zipper but a single 70 meter rope will reach the snow in current conditions.
With stable avalanche conditions and good visibility in the forecast, we decided to attempt Lover's Lane on Lane Peak. After waiting for the Longmire gate to open at 9 am, we drove to Narada Falls. We were geared up and on the trail by 9:30 am. The approach was firm and crusty, so we were able to hike without snowshoes and minimal postholing, reaching the apron below Lane Peak in about an hour. We were the first party on route, so we had to kick steps up the the base of the route at the first constriction. The route was completely snow filled and well consolidated with no visible ice or rock, so we decided to not rope up and just climb solo. There were two other groups on route with us, one group decided to rope up and simulclimb without placing and pro and the other group decided to climb solo.
There was a second constriction near the top of the route that was steeper with thinner, more frozen snow but with crampons and two tools still felt secure. We reached the top of the gully about 12:40 pm. The most time consuming portion of the climb was making a short, very exposed downclimb from the top of the gully to a tree with rap tat for the final rappel into the upper portion of the Zipper. We decided to belay this short section, placing several pickets for protection. It was the only pro we used on the climb. Since there were three groups, we used two 60 meter ropes for a double length rappel to make sure we made it to the snow in the Zipper.
In retrospect, a single 70 meter would likely make the rappel as well. After all three groups rappelled, we coiled our ropes and climbed the rest of the Zipper to the ridge, topping out at 2 pm with great views of Mount Rainier and the surrounding Tatoosh.
We debated scrambling to the summit but, with the delays on rappel and the winter gate closing at Longmire, we decided to skip the summit and descend. Despite the warm sun, the snow was still supportive and we were able to make it back to the car without snowshoes and with only minimal postholing. We arrived back at the car at 3:40 pm. All in all, a really fun climb in great conditions!