Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Winter climb of The Tooth - South Face

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Adventurous - mixed rock, snow, "ice", mush.

YouTube Video:

First crux was getting over Pineapple Pass, steep soft snow and had to climb up around around the cornices at the pass then drop back down to the pass, basically up to the rap sling on the stump.

Mix of snow and ice on all the pitches, fair amount of dry rock but climbed it in crampons and drytooled much of it.

Used a couple pitons, the usual rap stations are all buried and only the top of pitch 4 could be dug out. Had to leave behind rap slings on a couple trees.

Delicate climbing through the sections of steep soft snow where there weren't good pro options, ice or good features to hook tools on.

60m rope worked but a 70m would have made things easier with the scramble pitch 3 being steep soft snow that called for being roped up for and getting to a suitable rappel tree. We had to downclimb some steep snow to get from the end of the rappel to the next rappel tree and used a cordellete as a handline around a tiny tree for the first part.

Monopoint crampons worked great for all of the small cracks and ledges.

If anyone in the summer complains about being made to climb it in boots on a basic graduation climb I'll suggest they try it in crampons, boots, gloves and ice tools.