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French Slab Overview.jpg

Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - French Slab

Intermediate Ice Climb of the French Slab route in the Ouray Backcountry

Paul Wade Paul Wade
January 06, 2025
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • This route had good ice conditions when many other routes in the area were thin, so it can be a good option in early season or low snow years.

    Ice climbing debris falls straight down the climbing route, making it challenging for climbers when there are parties climbing above you.

    Driving directions: Going south from Ouray on Highway 550, park at a pullout 500 feet north of the first tunnel. The approach route is about 0.25 miles north of this pullout on the east side of the highway at the base of a tree filled gulley. 

After locating the approach gully, our team of 4 climbed for about 30 minutes to the base of the French Slab route.  There was minimal snow on the approach and it was well packed down, so there was no need for flotation.

French Slab base.jpg
Base of Route

We climbed the route in 3 pitches.  Pitch one was 150 feet of sustained WI3 with ice that would take good screw placements, with 13 cm to 17 cm the most useful sizes.  There were also options  for rock pro placements on the left wall.  The pitch one belay was a screw anchor in a scoop in the ice that provided a good stance.

French Slab Pitch 1.jpg
Pitch One

Pitch two was the same length with several steps of WI 2/3 with lower angle ice in between.  The pitch ended at a bolted belay near the top of a rock buttress.

The third pitch was short, about 40-50 feet total of mixed climbing through a restriction, then sharp right out onto  a rock rib to a tree with rap tat and quick link for an anchor.

Descent:  One 35 m rappel from the tree down the rock rib to a point level with the top of pitch one.  From there, it's a walk off skiers left down a gulley and scree until you intercept the approach trail not far from the road.  If you leave packs at the base of the climb, you'll end up a short distance below on the descent and will have to climb back up the trail to get back to them.