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Trip Report    

Grand Sentinel Alpine Climb

It’s hard to describe the satisfaction and elation a successful alpine climb brings when the conditions are perfect, the scenery incredible and enjoyment of the time spent with a wonderful climbing team exceeds all expectations.  This was a prize trip from The Mountaineers Gala Auction.

  • Sat, Aug 31, 2024 — Mon, Sep 2, 2024
  • Banff and Jasper Ice climbing
  • Climbing
  • Successful
  • Road suitable for all vehicles
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I woke at zero ugly early and drove the van to pick up Steve Swenson and Mike Heusdens at Steve’s townhouse in Canmore, AB.  At 3 am, we then picked up our Canadian guide, Ben Paradis, and drove into Banff National Pak to the 6400 feet Moraine Lake.  Because Ben had a guide’s parking permit, we gained access to the road to the lake and the last parking spot at the trailhead.  The parking lot fills long before sunrise as the tourist arrive way early to seek pics of the beautiful sunrise reflected off the Moraine Lake

We assembled our gear and started hiking with lit headlamps up the well-maintained trial to Sentinel Pass.  Dawn broke as we reached the alpine meadows of the larch valley. Steve pointed out the greatly receded glaciers on the surrounding peaks, especially up the Supercouloir route on Mt Deltaform, and the effects climate change inflicted on the Canadian Rockies.    

By 7:30 we reached the top of the 8600' Sentinel pass. The trail forks there with the choice of a scramble route up Mt Temple to the right or a steep descent trail into the Valley of 10 peaks. At the pass Steve told us he mostly simul-climbed the 11 plus pitch route up the Northeast Buttress route up Mt Temple the week before.  We eased our way down a climber’s trail to a bowling alley steep scree slope.  We gingerly stepped horizontally along the slope that felt like walking sideways on an escalator.  Fortunately, our early start meant that the sun had yet to melt out and release unstable rocks above us. Still, rocks crashed in the distance as we made our approach to the Grand Sentinel (GS) obelisk quartz spire.  After a distance of about 1K, we safely reached the base of GS and noshed before the rock climb.   

Thus began our Mountaineer’s Gala auction prize trip.*

At the base of GS we geared up and Ben led the first pitch.  I followed up the crack and face climb to the first ledge.  Behind me, Steve led the second rope team with Mike seconding.  The second pitch provided more of the old school 5.8 climbing.  I struggled up the crux 3rd pitch that involved working up a corner crack and then maneuvering up a roof.  The final pitch wove around the edge of the tower to an easy jug holds to the summit.  Throughout the day and especially at the summit, we enjoyed great views of some amazing peaks of Banff.  Following some summit chocolate and obligatory pics we quickly descended with 4 rappels back to the base of the tower.  Steve’s climbing skills and efficiency shown in the quickness of setting up the rappels.  While he was all about fun, he proved all business efficient in all aspects of rope management.  Despite that Mike and I are average climbers he treated us as equals in the adventure. Steve started every lead with “We’re having fun!” and a fist bump, and we truly were.

At the bottom of the tower, we packed up our gear and made our way down the steep scree slope.  At the bottom of the narrow valley, we regained the faint trail back up the backside of the pass.  After scrambling up the trail we returned to the pass and the final look at the beautiful climb we had completed.  We then plodded back to the van for our well-earned beer. At last light, we left the Moraine Lake trailhead around and drove back to Canmore.  I felt the painful effects of a full alpine climb day but the rest of the crew were already planning for climbing the next morning.   

It’s hard to describe the satisfaction and elation a successful alpine climb brings when the conditions are perfect, the scenery incredible and enjoyment of the time spent with a wonderful climbing team exceeds all expectations. 

*Mike and I had bid on and won the opportunity to do an alpine climb up the GS with Steve Swenson in the Canadian Rockies.  After nearly two years of waiting due to COVID closures, we finally traveled to Banff over Labor Day weekend for the climb. At dinner, the evening before the climb, we found Steve to be a wonderful host. He shared stories only when asked and never bragged about his incredible adventures.  His humility showed in everything.  While Mike and I sat in amazement he never sprayed glorification of his accomplishments.  Yet his love for alpine climbing proved pervasive.  This two-time Piolet d’Or winner and former president of the American Alpine Club and former Mountaineers board member, rarely acknowledged these feats.  Likewise, he barely spoke of his book that outlines his lifetime of accomplishments and his friendships with the who’s who of the climbing world.   He came across as the one having the most fun on the climb and wanting to share his enjoyment and climbing knowledge.  For example, at the belay station he pointed out the value of making tic marks with chalk to identify where to place your feet.  He demonstrated quick ways to form anchors with excellent rope management.  He talked of his project rewriting the Freedom of the Hills, Ice Climbing chapter to enable the “climber’s bible” to stay abreast of the latest techniques.  He spoke of organizing the Mountaineers “climbing ambassadors” meet ups.  His sharing knowledge and giving to the climbing community seemed endless. It should also be noted that the Mountaineers selected Steve Swenson for the lifetime achievement award at the 2023 Gala.  I can’t think of anyone more deserving of that recognition.  Additionally at the Gala I hope you bid on and obtain the adventure of your dreams like Mike and I did.   

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