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Trip Report    

Global Adventure - Dayhike Newfoundland with a Naturalist and Culture Focus

We visited both coasts of this big island. Hikes, naturalist outings, historic sites & museums - some self-guided, some professionally guided. Ten hikes involving a diversity of ecosystems. Quaint, rustic or farm-stay lodgings. Newfoundlanders enjoy a slower paced lifestyle and loved to tell us their stories. At the end of the trip, we were all "screeched in" to become honorary Newfoundlanders.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • All hikes were on trails created & maintained by Parks Canada. Trails through bog & wetland areas were often on boardwalks – which when wet were surprisingly not slippery. Trails through boreal forest or arctic-alpine barrens always included rocks & roots; some were entirely rocky which slowed the pace. In Gros Morne NP, there was very little top soil which meant that after an evening rain, the trail may be wet but not muddy. We had only one hiking-day of soaking rain; and then, only for a couple hours. Despite the preponderance of wet habitats, as well as small to large freshwater pools/ponds, biting insects were only a minor annoyance. One participant seemed to have a skin reaction to the bites but it subsided after a few days. Other participants were not bothered by insects. It was always windy, especially near a coastline – winds 10-15mph (up to 20-30mph), gushes 20-30 mph (up to 35-45mph). Air temps ranged from upper 50’s to upper 70’s with sunshine or overcast or fog. It is said there are 150,000 moose on NFLD; therefore, we stayed off the roads during dawn or dusk. However, we never saw a moose, anywhere.

    The itinerary was designed with the ability to rearrange hikes & activities depending on weather conditions. This flexibility was utilized resulting in all planned activities & hikes being accomplished plus the addition of 1 optional hike ... so, 10 hikes in all (not counting the urban walks).

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    Moose warning road sign

On July 12, four Mountaineers met in St. John’s, the capital city of the Canadian province of Newfoundland (NFLD), to begin a day-hiking, naturalist and cultural trip. Newfoundland island is the eastern-most extent of the North American continent; so far east that it has its own time zone.  Pictures & ID of the flora and fauna can be viewed on the trip leader’s records on iNaturalist (link to trip leader’s iNaturalist observations).

 Day 1.Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site. Parks Canada guided tour of NFLD’s oldest lighthouse restored to 1839 appearance, the WWII coastal defense battery and the dramatic coastline where we observed whales.  After the Global Adventures welcome lunch, walk through the Salmonier Nature Park with time in the Wildlife Discovery Centre.20250713_114457 (Medium).jpg

Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic site, the eastern most point in North America

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Salmonier Nature Park is also a wildlife rehabilitation centre

Day 2. Cormac, NFLD. Site of the Upper Humber Settlement and first night of our farm stay hosted by Mark & Lauralee, descendants of original settlers & local native people.20250717_UpperHumber (Small).jpg

Upper Humber Settlement farmstay at Cormac

 Day 3. Green Gardens hike, Gros Morne National Park. Birds, berries and blossoms. Starts thru the open serpentine barrens of the Tablelands, descends through boreal forest to a fertile volcanic sea coast.

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Green Gardens trail passes thru a boreal forest

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Green Gardens trail, meadow atop ocean-side cliffs
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We discovered one of Parks Canada's famous Red Chairs on the coast of the Green Gardens trail
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Birds, berries & blossoms. These are just a few that we saw or heard.

Day 4. “Farm & Forage” guided tour to discover Upper Humber Settlement’s approach to sustainable farming – such as growing strawberries in what appears to be a parcel of tall “weeds”, while a challenge to find & harvest, also prevents scavenging by birds & reduces the need to water. Supervised foraging of plants which one might otherwise consider to be “weeds” along with edible woodland plants & trees to create our own luncheon salads. Our salads were served with pan-braised cod tongues & beverages made with edible and sometimes medicinal plants.

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Lauralee teaches us how to forage edible wild plants.

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Preparing our foraged wild foods for luncheon
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Prior to pan searing for our lunch, Lauralee presents the cod tongues which will accompany our wild-foraged salads.

Day 5. Parks Canada guided tour of The Tablelands, a unique geological feature of an exposed section of the Earth's mantle that was thrust to the surface during plate tectonic collisions. Followed by a Parks Canada guided tour of medicinal plants by a member of the Mi'kmaw nation.

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Lunch stop after the tour & hike thru The Tablelands. Orange barren mantle rocks are laden with metals and are toxic to the growth of most plants.

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Parks Canada Mi'kmaw nation member teaches us about medicinal wild plants.
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This is as close as we ever got to a moose.

Day 6. Baker’s Brook Falls hike, Gros Morne National Park, through balsam fir and tamarack (larch) forest to Baker's Brook Falls, a series of cascades over limestone ridges. The trail also passed through a moose ex-closure (an enclosure take keeps out moose) that demonstrated the impact of heavy moose browsing which has limited regrowth of NFLD forests. Torrential rain started just before we reached the intended turnaround point at the waterfall viewpoint. It lasted only a couple hours, but soaked thru almost everyone’s rain gear & boots.BakerBrookOrchids.jpg

This trail was the best for wetland plants such as these two orchids.

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Another type of Newfoundland's numerous edible berries (left) and one of the types of cotton grass (right)
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The day's rainfall filled Baker's Brook Falls.
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We were rain-soaked, needing a snack and ready to head back to the trailhead

Day 7. Western Brook Pond interpretive boat tour of glacier-carved land-locked fjord, waterfalls cascading from 2000 feet.  Hike to Broom Point and a historic fishing exhibit showcasing the life of a fishing family plus conversation with a Parks Canada ranger who explained how historic cod fishing traps and lobster traps were built with local materials & used, including tales from his own family’s history in the area.20250719_WesternBrkPnd2 (Medium).jpg

Western Brook Pond viewed from our boat. The cliffs are 2000' high but lack of perspective makes it difficult to appreciate.

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Onboard the tour boat, at the far end of Western Brook Pond.
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Hike to the coast and the historic fishing premises at Broome Point

Day 8. Hike to Gros Morne Mountain, 2nd highest mountain on the island of Newfoundland (elev ~2600’).  The flat summit is a harsh yet beautiful Arctic-alpine environment where we saw a ptarmigan and heard her chicks peeping from within the shrubbery20250720_071452 (Medium).jpg

Sun rising behind Gros Morne Mountain for our 7AM start of this hike.

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The forest approach trail led to this rock-filled gully which had to be climbed to reach the summit. This was the most difficult part of the hike, thankfully only 3/4 mile long.
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Feeling quite pleased with themselves at the summit.
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Ten Mile Pond viewed from the Gros Morne Mtn trail.
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The Long Range Mountains, which are the northern extent of the Appalachian Mountains in the US.

Day 9. Visit Demasduit Regional Museum for an understanding of the 8000 year human history of Newfoundland and the eventual industrialization of mining, fishing & timber. Then, hike the Ochre Hill trail at Terra Nova National Park where there were lots of different mosses & lichens, as well as abundant berries.

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Territorial view from top of Ochre Hill. Smoke from distant wildfires could be observed.

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Unlike the reindeer lichen we saw at the summit of Gros Morne Mountain, this was a different species of reindeer lichen which looked fluffy.
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More berries! Clockwise: cloudberry, blueberry, lingonberry

Day 10. Bonavista Lighthouse and Mockbeggar Plantation Historic Sites guided tours. No hiking today due to excessively high winds, rain and dangerous gusts. Mockbeggar Plantation is so named because the English term for settlers was “planter”. This was a fisheries plantation for processing, storing salt fish, sales and a cod liver oil factory. Not many outdoor pictures today due to the extreme weather.BonavistaLighthouse (Medium).jpg

The lighthouse tour included a climb up the stone tower to see the same seal oil fueled catoptric light apparatus that was used in the 1800s and watch a demonstration.
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The Atlantic Ocean pounds Cape Bonavista
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During a brief stop to check out one of Elliston’s “world famous” root cellars, a red fox walked across its top (photo taken thru vehicle windshield due to weather conditions).
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Root cellars, hewn from the solid hillside rock, were used for food storage until electrification became widespread in the 1960’s

Day 11. What difference a day makes in the weather. Bonavista Peninsula walk to Elliston settlement’s puffin viewing site, the closest view of puffins, from the land, in all of North America. Puffins fly close to viewers and often land on the cliffs just several feet away.  Followed by a hike on the Swerkink coastal trail.20250723_EllistonPuffin1 (Medium).jpg

The Atlantic Puffin colony located on a rocky nearshore island

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If you sit or stand still, puffins will fly within a few feet over your head or land nearby.
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After the previous day of extreme conditions, sunshine is a relief. The group enjoys a bit of post-puffin-viewing relaxation.
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Hiking the Skerwink trail on the Bonavista peninsula.
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Skerwink coastal trail provided us with views of sea stacks & whales, as well as distant picturesque seaside villages.
 
Day 12. Witless Bay Ecological Reserve interpretive seabird & whale boat tour.  Visit Quidi Vidi village. Hike the Sugarloaf Path of the East Coast Trail. 
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After reciting the appropriate verse, chugging a shot of faux-screech (rum) & kissing a cod (represented by a plush toy), we were awarded our NFLD sou'wester hat and Screecher certificate denoting us as honorary Newfoundlanders.

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Back in St. John's, Lunch stop on the quay at Quidi Vide saltwater harbour before our East Coast trail hike.

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Hiking the Sugarloaf path of the East Coast trail with view of the Atlantic Ocean where closest eastward landfall is Iceland.
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From the top of Sugarloaf path, view of Quidi Vidi lake (freshwater) and St. John's

Day 13.  Hike to Signal Hill National Historic Site for guided tour of batteries, barracks and history of Canada's defense and wireless communications history. It provides panoramic views and military pageantry.   Farewell group dinner at restaurant in St. John's.20250725_SignalHill view (Small).jpg

St. John’s harbour from the top of Signal Hill with view of the Queens Battery Barracks & historic cannons aimed at the harbour entrance.

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Firing of the noon-day gun, a tradition dating back to the 19th century & part of Signal Hill’s military pageantry.

 Day 14. Turn in rental vehicle and depart for USA.

 

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Bill Wardwell
Bill Wardwell says:
Jul 30, 2025 02:41 PM

I thought the leader planned and organized a spectacular trip. Newfoundland is such an obscure place that I never would have thought to travel there on my own.

The leader did an excellent and thorough job preparing the plan and the agenda. I particularly enjoyed the hikes through the boglands and the one to Green Gardens on the coast. I was glad to be able to get to the top of Gros Morne mountain under the leader's guidance. I include summiting it as a significant accomplishment.

Also great edification for me were the foraging experiences - at the farm as well as with a local medicine woman. The tours of the lighthouses and other attractions were great fun too.

The trip was well planned. It was not overly strenuous, making it accessible.

The leader was excellent in all respects.