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Trip Report    

Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

3 days, 2 nights. July 2-5, 2015.

TH to camp: 7:40
Camp to summit: 5:50
Summit time: 0:25
Summit to camp: 3:35
Camp to TH: 6:00

Busy 4th of July weekend with 15-20 separate parties on the route. No traffic issues though.
Camped in White Chuck Glacier Basin. Plenty of snow free campsites and running water.
Left camp on summit day at 4 am. Many parties were leaving around this time. With the warm weather the snow was soft and we did not need crampons until halfway up the Cool Glacier where we roped up shortly after (see waypoints on GPS track).
The few crevasses were easily avoided. Main concern was when turning left around Disappointment Peak on the Cool Glacier. We saw one person stepping through a small snow bridge with one leg. Will get trickier as it melts out, but the crevasses here are quite narrow.
When we were back on the Disappointment Peak Cleaver we left our ropes and harnesses behind. The scramble to the summit was straightforward. It is also worth taking the 10-15 minutes to tag Disappointment Peak from this point. Gorgeous views.