Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Glacier Peak via the Disappointment Peak Cleaver is a Grade I glacier climb.

getting there

Take the Mountain Loop Highway from either Darrington or Granite Falls to Forest Road 49, about 7 mi south of Barlow Pass. Travel 6.5 mi on this road until reaching Sloan Creek Campground (pit toilet available). The elevation here is about 2100 ft.

APPROACH

From Sloan Creek Campground, follow Trail 649 along the North Fork Sauk River. After 5.5 mi, reach the Mackinaw Shelter. Camping is possible here, but not recommended for a 3 day climb. Continue on Trail No. 649, which soon begins switch backing for about 2,500 ft gain. Some water may be available here from snowmelt in numerous spots. Continue on the trail which does a rising traverse to White Pass, intersecting the Pacific Crest Trail just prior to the pass. Early season you may need to break your own trail here.

At White Pass look for the Foam Creek trail and follow it as it does an ascending traverse under White Mountain to below the eastern-most col along the ridge above you on climber's left. Leave the trail and head up to the col at about 6,600 ft.

At the col you will get your first views of Glacier Peak. Head down the slope about 400 ft traversing to the right. Continue onto low angle terrain up to the edge of the White Chuck Glacier at about 6,700 ft. Numerous campsites are available here on flat snow and among rock islands. Look for possible nearby water sources.

ASCENT ROUTE

Traverse northward across the White Chuck Glacier for some time on low-angled terrain. If you camped on climber's right of the glacier, you are likely to ascent just above glacial lakes on your left. You can either follow low angle terrain that arcs slowly to the right, or you can find steeper snow/rock bands (loose, class 2) that will get you to a col adjoining the edge of the Suiattle Glacier (7,300 ft). From here descend about 100 ft or so to flat ground and cross it to the nose of the Disappointment Cleaver.

When melted out there is an obvious climber's trail on the right side of the cleaver. Ascend it until you get close to where it steepens, and drop to the snow (about 8,600 ft). Make a rising traverse on the glacier to the right under Disappointment Peak, avoiding obvious rock fall in this area, then arc up and left to steepening snow slopes to the col adjoining the Cool Glacier at 9,100 ft. Ascend the Cool Glacier to the 9600 ft col above Disappointment Peak. Continue north-northwest on snow or pumice slopes up and left until an obvious, moderate slope that leads north straight up to the summit ridge (final 200-300 ft).

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT	TIME (hR)	ELEVATION GAIN (FT)	Elevation Loss (FT)	Distance (MI)
Seattle to Trailhead	2.5
Trailhead to Camp	7-10	5,000	400	10.5
Camp to Summit	5-7	3,800		6.5
Summit to Camp	4-5		3,800	6.5
Camp to Trailhead	6-7	400	5,000	10.5

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment.

Suitable Activities: Climbing
Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
Seasons: June, July, August
Weather: View weather forecast.

Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
Length: 33.0 mi
Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft
High Point: 10,520 ft

Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
Glacier Peak Wilderness, Darrington Ranger District (MBSNF)
Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
Recommended Party Size: 12
Maximum Party Size: 12

Map

Recommended Maps:

USGS Glacier Peak West
USGS Glacier Peak East

Activities