Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

getting there

From Darrington, drive south on the Mountain Loop Highway. After about 10 miles the road turns to gravel. Follow the gravel road another 8 miles, then turn left onto Sloan Creek Road. Drive for 6.6 miles, take the left fork and continue a short distance to the North Fork Sauk River Trailhead (2,050 ft).

Approach

white pass

Hike the North Fork Sauk River Trail through old-growth forest approx. 3.5 mi to Red Creek, then anther 1.5 miles to the Mackinaw Shelter and good camping. Shortly after the shelter, the trail ascends steeply ~3 miles to a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (6,000 ft). Turn right, and hike 0.25 mile to White Pass (5,900 ft). Continue ENE on a boot path under the southeast side of White Mountain for ~1.3 miles to a high shoulder southeast of Point 6770 at the west edge of the Foam Creek drainage. Head northward to a pass at 6,600 ft and enjoy the first views of Glacier Peak. Head down the slope about 400 feet traversing to the right. Continue onto low angle terrain up to the edge of the White Chuck Glacier at ~6,700 ft. Numerous campsites are available here on flat snow and among rock islands, and a tarn at 6,433 ft.

Red Pass

Hike North Fork Sauk River Trail through old-growth forest approx. 3.5 mi to Red Creek, then anther 1.5 miles to the Mackinaw Shelter and good camping. Shortly after the shelter, the trail ascends steeply ~3 miles to a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (6,000 ft). At the junction, turn left and hike 1.2 miles to Red Pass (6,500 ft). From here make a short detour up a boot path to the summit of Portal Peak (6,999 ft) for some outstanding views. Follow the Pacific Crest Trail as it descends east from Red Pass. Leave the trail at ~5,300 ft and head east until reaching the edge of the White Chuck Glacier at ~6,700 ft. Numerous campsites are available here on flat snow and among rock islands, and a tarn at 6,433 ft.

ASCENT ROUTE

Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver (10,520 ft)

33 miles round trip with 8,200 feet of elevation gain

Traverse northward across the White Chuck Glacier for some time on low-angled terrain. If camped on climber's right of the glacier, ascend just above glacial lakes on the left. Follow low angle terrain that arcs slowly to the right or climb steeper snow and rock bands (loose Class 2) that ascend to a col adjoining the edge of the Suiattle Glacier (7,300 ft). From here descend about ~100 feet to flat ground and cross it to the nose of the Disappointment Cleaver.

When melted out there is an obvious climber's trail on the right side of the cleaver. Ascend it until it steepens, and then descend to the snow (~8,600 ft). Climb a rising traverse on the glacier to the right under Disappointment Peak, avoiding rock fall in this area, then in an arc up and left to steepening snow slopes to the col adjoining the Cool Glacier at 9,100 ft. Ascend the Cool Glacier to the 9,600 ft col above Disappointment Peak. Continue north-northwest on snow or pumice slopes up and left until an obvious, moderate slope that leads north straight up to the summit ridge, a final 200-300 feet of climbing.

Kololo Peaks/White Chuck Glacier (8,197 ft)

25 miles round trip with 6,150 feet of elevation gain

From the tarn, hike up to the west side of the peak to ~6,800 ft where the once mighty White Chuck Glacier used to flow. The remnant White Chuck Glacier occupies the higher cirque. Keep left on talus and rubbly terrain (snow in early season), passing up through a couple of minor cliff bands (Class 2+). Pass the outlet of an ice-filled sub-cirque WNW of the summit and continue up slabs to ~7,700 ft just below the west summit. Climb directly up across a low-angle ice sheet (150 yards) to rock beyond. Climb to the west summit (Class 2) then descend below its south side on easy ledges and up to the true summit.

• In late summer and early fall, this route can be done with little or no glacier travel.

DESCENT route

Descend the climbing route. Consider making the return a loop by hiking out the other other approach.

TRIP PROFILE

glacier Peak/disappointment peak cleaver

kololo peaks/White Chuck Glacier

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
• Length: 33.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft
• High Point: 10,520 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Glacier Peak Wilderness, Darrington Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12