Colchuck Peak/East Route

Trip was Saturday, 6/6/15. High temperatures (around 90 in Leavenworth) were a worry, so we brought a lot of water (3+ liters per person). We also had filters if needed but didn't need to stop to get extra water. Temperatures on the climb turned out to be comfortable, mostly shade in the forest and cool once on the snow; only the boulder field got hot. T-shirt weather on the summit and superb views in every direction.

Snow is melted out several hundred feet above the lake, but there is a decent climbers trail up which gets lost periodically in the boulders. Not bad for travel but snow would be much more pleasant and faster. Once on the snow travel was very smooth. We brought crampons but didn't need them--the snow did get a bit hard in places so the might be necessary on another day. We were able to glissade down pretty much all the snow, but there were icy chunks in places so it wasn't quite ideal.

Above the col the climber's route gets lost at times in boulders and snow. You cannot see the summit for a while so be sure to stay climber's left and go around the false summits you can see. There was one rock groove that was class 3; otherwise all class 1 and 2.

An excellent, strong group. We started at 7:20am, reached the summit in 5 hours, on top for 40 minutes, and down in 4 hours to finish at 5pm for 9:40 total time.