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Trip Report    

Big Snagtooth/West Ridge

August 3, 2014: 6:40 a.m. left trailhead, summit at 1:45 p.m. then a few of us went over to conquer Willow Tooth. Back to cars just before 7 p.m. Two folks required basic rock credit so we set up two ropes (One set of 30m half ropes; one 60m standard). On the half ropes one was used by our Basic student follower who cleaned pro. The other two who did not need credit just prusiked or were belayed up the other half rope. I don’t know if much time was saved, but packs were lighter. The second team used the 60m rope. Rope teams went up one of two chimney options from the saddle placing just a couple pieces of gear (#.75, #1, #2 cams, two natural pro, depending on which route you selected). The first pitch was maybe 30’, a short scramble to the base of the 3rd pitch which was maybe 15’. There were surprisingly 3 parties on this route today so we waited for our turn to go up the final slab pitch; one via the shoulder boost and everyone else via a handline. The rappel is on the minor rib just below the top of the chimney routes we went up. There are two rappel anchors. If the first one looks sketchy, check 10 feet further down the ridge for one more solid. Willow Tooth was a 15 minute side trip—class 2 from the saddle between the two peaks. The “dirty gulley” to reach Snagtooth Ridge was the loosest bowling alley I have been on. Exercise extreme care ascending/descending. Best to do when this is snow covered. Peakbagger has a really good GPS track (thanks Sean!). We were slightly higher on our way in and descended on that GPS track which resulted in fewer undulations but a bit brushier. Wild blueberries were just coming in.