Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Trip Report

This is the type of climb we dream about: a classic route most of us hadn't done before, amazing people with close bonds, and even surprise summit brownies!

After three years working toward my rock climb leader badge with my SIG members eagerly awaiting this moment alongside me, I finally earned this privilege. This meant I could take members of my SIG (and Honorary SIG member Danyel) on a basic alpine climb. Our group consisted of experienced climbers who had been adventuring together for 2+ years. After considering many options, we settled on South Early Winter Spire via the South Arête, attracted by its short approach, epic views, and the route's novelty for the team. Having previously led this climb with my assistant SIG leader Dominic Anderson weeks before, I came prepared with detailed beta to ensure success.

We planned to meet at the Blue Lake Trailhead at 8 AM, but coffee delays pushed our arrival to 8:20, where we claimed the last two parking spots. Drawing from our shared adventure history, we aligned our expectations of "fun" before setting out.

The approach proved straightforward, accompanied by Pika alarm calls (beep!) announcing the Shafer/Sarver SIG's arrival. The trail navigation was simple: left at the Blue Lake trail turnoff, then right at the intersection for Liberty Bell/Concord Tower and SEWS. We donned helmets near North Early Winter Spires due to potential rockfall from climbers above. At the route's base, I briefed everyone on beta, including crux locations and rappel chains. Dan and Erin chose their seconds, and we established the climbing order. I paired with Bhargav, my climbing partner of three years since he joined my SIG.

Despite the full parking lot and late Saturday start, we found only a small two person team Tacoma Mountaineers ahead, who quickly disappeared from view. Surprisingly, we had the entire route to ourselves—no other parties or gear in sight. There were however multiple parties descending from successful summit of the Southwest Rib of SEWS.

Still undecided between the slab move left or mantling over the bulge/roof as before, I began leading. At the crux, my team's unified encouragement—"trust your feet" and "just go for it"—helped push me through. One climber later noted, "the rock just wants your feet to stick." After this section, I quickly established a tree belay and brought up my second, allowing the next party to begin. During my lead, two friendly mountain goats visited our group, adding to the day's magic. Each climber tackled the boulder problem differently—some direct, others mantling over the bulge before going left and up—each wrestling with their own internal dialogue.

The remaining climb and scramble proceeded smoothly. We all navigated the chimney/chockstone problem, setting belays at logs and dead trees when possible. We identified rappel stations during the ascent for safety awareness.

Near the top, we employed short-roping techniques before reaching the shark's fin. We devised an efficient system for crossing: the leader would protect each party across using a single carabiner anchor point, with subsequent climbers belayed top-rope style to the anchor before continuing the traverse. This ensured protection while maintaining steady progress. At the final scramble section, Bhargav set up a three-point anchored handline from the summit tree. Everyone clipped in for added security before reaching the summit, where Danyel surprised us with brownies. We enjoyed a relaxed lunch break in the shade before beginning our descent.

We used handlines with prusik backup for the initial descent and shark's fin crossing. Three back-to-back rappels, efficiently managed with extra ropes and a final stacked rappel for the last pair, brought us safely to the base. With headlamps ready and about an hour of daylight remaining, we returned to the parking lot.

Each climber faced unique challenges and cruxes throughout our collective journey, but our friendship and mutual support carried us through to a successful summit. These are the climbs we all dream of.

Timeline

• Start hiking: ~8:45AM
• Reached the base of SEWS: ~10:15AM
• Start Climbing: 11:10AM
• Arrive at the Sharks-Fin: 2:48PM
• Summit: 3:45PM
• Start Descent: ~4:10PM
• Completed all Rappels: ~6:30
• Back to the Cars: 8:15PM

Car to Car: About 11.5 Hours with a party of 6 (3 rope teams of two)

Descent Beta

(Quote from https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122828558/sews-sw-rib-descent-question) Also bumping the New Route Update: South Early Winter Spires (SEWS) Mountaineers Blog Post. 

...The anchors are bolts and chains and all offer steep and fairly clean raps and good pulls with a 60m rope.  

The top anchor is on a big ledge right above a small tree that some people have previously rappelled off of. This tree was awkward to rappel off of and you had to climb down and under it to get to the slings.  (Some of you will know exactly what I am talking about, while this will seem nonsensical to others)  The new bolts are on the large ledge above and just climbers right of this tree.  

The second rappel is on the ledge just above the chockstone. This was also the site of a tree rappel. This tree took the brunt of the recent rockfall and puts climbers right in the line of fire for all potential rockfall from the very loose section above.  

The final rappel is fall line below the previous rap and also on the climbers right of the gully.  It is slightly higher than the old rappel bolts and allows climbers not to have to cross the gully.  This rap takes you down steep terrain right to the ground.  

As others have stated you can see the first two rappel anchors as your climbing (reference the Download a high resolution image of the new route.) With the first one being to climbers right at a big ledge right before you start ascending the gully to the chimney. The second one being climbers right just about 5 feet past the chockstone near a tree. And then finding that elusive final (top most) rappel station at climbers right as you ascend SEWS [YouTube Link].  

Selected Pictures

Map