Trip Report
Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête
Pleasant climb of the South Arete route on SEWS. Delightful team and perfect weather made for a joyful day in the mountains.
- Fri, Aug 29, 2025
- Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête
- South Early Winter Spire/South Arête
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Trail and route were snow free. There was no water available on trail or climbing route.
Excellent chill climb of SEWS South Arete route on a Friday. The weather was perfect- warm but not too hot. We encountered only a handful of others on the route. This route features easy climbing with a couple of thoughtful moves, a long scramble section and a short, exposed traverse along a rock fin. Our group was 12 hours C2C.
P2 continued up through broken terrain going slightly left. We ended the pitch by building a gear anchor just below the chock stone.
P3 was a short pitch getting over the chock stone by going up the wall to the left.
After the chock stone, we ascended sandy benches and other scramble terrain. I carried half my rope in kiwi coils and scrambled up short bits (placing a few pieces of gear) and then belayed my follower up.
At the whale back, the climb leader led across and set up a hand line for our followers. We left one rope at the whale back. We climbed another half rope pitch with one follower tied to middle and belayed separately and the other team tied into the end and climbing in caterpillar mode. We then switched to everyone scrambling with the leader providing a belay to the person who requested one.
After a short summit break, we scrambled down with the leader providing belay support for one participant. This maximized our efficiency for the varied scrambling skill levels in the group.

When we came to the whale back, the leader tied into one end of the rope and led across, clipping the single bolt in the middle. Then we tied an alpine butterfly in the rope and clipped in the first follower. Once the first follower was across, we tied another alpine butterfly and belayed the second follower across. Lastly, I tied into the end of the rope and was belayed across. Our 60m rope was plenty long enough to belay each of us across separately like this on the same rope.
Then more scrambling/supported scrambling down moderate terrain to the top rappel anchor. We did three single rope rappels using the chains. We saddle bagged the rope on the first two and used the throw method on the last one. Everyone rappelled safely and efficiently.

The hike out was uneventful except for passing a mother goat with a very cute baby ( and later passing a human mother with a cute human baby). We got back to our cars just before dark.
Equipment used by rope lead:
- single rack with sizes .3 to 2 and a small assortment of nuts.
- cord to build anchors (mostly on trees or boulders).
- carried 5 alpine draws and 5 double slings.
- I belayed with Grigri and rappelled with ATC.
- 70m rope (60m would be plenty long)
Barbara Motteler