Search trip reports
Placeholder Routes & Places

Trip Report    

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Successful early season ascent of SEWS via S Arête

Karl Themer Karl Themer
June 01, 2025
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • The Blue Lake trail parking lot is open and free of snow.  The outhouse is open.  There is intermittent snow starting at the trailhead but it is possible to hike the trail now.  The climbers' trail also has a mix of snow and dry conditions.  Most of the last 600' gain to the base of the climb was on snow.  We did not bring nor need snowshoes or crampons.  The climbing route itself is free of snow.  There are a few lingering patches of snow on the scramble portion of the climb but they can be avoided completely.  There are three bolted rappel anchors, installed by guides a few years ago, which allow anyone descending to avoid overlapping with anyone ascending.  The staging area at the base of the climb is snow-free.

We camped at Klipchuck campground the night before ($20 site/$10 extra vehicle).  We were up at 4:30 and driving to the TH by 5:00.  The day was just starting with minimal light and we saw plenty of animals which are active at this time of day during that drive, including at least six deer and a black bear next to the road.  We organized gear at the TH and we were underway by 6:00 AM.

We noticed at the TH that the snow did not freeze overnight so we decided not to take snowshoes or crampons which was the right decision.  We were able to hike the Blue Lake trail instead of heading straight up through the woods.  The trail has dry sections and others with snow or running water but it is easy to follow and allowed us to make good time.  We started up the climbers' trail at about 7:00 and followed it until it splits (left for Liberty Bell, right for SEWS).  At this point we were past the slabs and we continued mostly on snow but we could kick steps easily.  The last few hundred feet to the base of the climb were on dirt again.

It took us just over two hours to get to the base.  We organized quickly and formed climbing teams, with the first team on the move around 8:40.  The route is snow-free, the rock was not cold, and we made good time.  We protected three pitches and set a line over the Whale's back.  By 12:30 everyone was on the summit.  At this time the weather started to turn, what was a calm day with lots of sun turned to a windy day with dark clouds approaching.  We started our descent at 1:00.  We ran a very efficient rappel sequence using the new bolted anchors (all three are climber's right of the trees used as anchors during the ascent) and in the space of just one hour we completed nearly 30 rappels with everyone back at base at 2:30.  Although we were the only party climbing the S Arête there were other parties climbing the SW rib and they came up behind us during the descent.  There was brief light rain as we started our descent back to the cars.  Two hours later we were at the cars for a round trip time of just over ten hours.  It started to rain more heavily and we departed for dinner at Mondo's in Marblemount.   A strong and efficient team and a great day out.