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Trip Report    

Basic Rock Climb - Lundin Peak/West Ridge

Overall straightforward approach and climb - lots of berries in the basin during late summer/early fall!

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Route in good shape overall. All a climbers trail though so it can take a bit longer than the stats would immediately suggest.

Just gimme the GPS!

Easy parking at the Alpental parking lot and easy finding the trail just before the Snow Lake trail. Ascended climbers trail to split between Snoqualmie Mountain, Cave Ridge, and Lundin trails at ~4600'. At this point there is an obvious trail across slabs to the right to Cave Ridge, a well worn trail to the left to Snoqualmie, and a less worn trail that continues more or less straight to Lundin. Followed a mix of GPS track and boot track through a basin with incredible amounts of blueberries, up a broad ridgeline, and across the basin towards Lundin's west ridge. The remains of the plane crash are around 47.45931, -121.40709 and we went below them. We gained the ridge and did some exposed, but easy scrambling along it to the base of P1. We had an odd number (5) with three leads and two Basic students. We  had two leads tie into the ends of a rope and had a basic student tie in with a butterfly ~30' from the end. The basic student lead belayed and cleaned gear with the lead following up behind them. This worked well for this route since the climbing was mostly scrambling and we could keep pitches longer instead of being stuck with half rope lengths.

P1 (4th) - Up and over the blocky step, then to the North side of the ridge on easy boot track until a good chockstone belay to the right, before ducking through a tree on the left to continue along the North side. Good natural protection to protect against swings in case of a slip.

P2 (3rd) - Traverse along the North side of the ridge, following boot pack until a tree belay before a steeper section. Good natural protection.

P3 (5.2?) - Climbed rising straight ahead traverse for ~30', then to the right up a gully. Tried to keep going but rope drag was horrendous so I used a good boulder belay at the top to bring up both followers. I topped out ~10' climbers left of the rappel station.

P4-P5 (3rd) - Swapped to South side of the ridge here onto a wide ledge. Conferred with the Basic student on our rope and they were fine scrambling it. Short roped for a small section, then unroped before gaining the ridge crest. Easy scrambling with one steeper move got us to the summit!

Did a protected downclimb  for the steep step on the way down from the summit, scrambled back to the top of P3, and did a short (~15m?) rappel. Existing rappel tat looked good (4 cordelettes, 3 rings, 2 slings). Scrambled P2 and did another protected downclimb for the blocky step of P1. This climb could potentially go with only slings on natural protection, but some mid sized (.4-1) cams are nice for additional protection on the scrambly pitches, on P1 & P3, and if you want the practice of adding some gear to the belay in addition to the chockstone at the end of P1 .

Kept getting a bit too low on the traverse on way out since it's easy to lose elevation when traversing downhill so there was some minor course correcting required. Stopped by the plane crash and did plenty of foraging on the way back to the cars!

Stats: 6.1 mies, 3100' elevation gain, 10h 40m.

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Berry madness on the ascent.

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More berry madness.

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Yep, we want to climb that one.

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More berry madness, but this was on the descent.