Trip Report
Basic Glacier Climb - Sloan Peak/Corkscrew Route
Very fun overnight glacier climb with a great group. Recent rains abated just in time for a glorious sunrise and blue-bird Sunday climb up a PNW classic.
Stephen Johnson
- Sat, Jun 28, 2025 — Sun, Jun 29, 2025
- Basic Glacier Climb - Sloan Peak/Corkscrew Route
- Sloan Peak/Corkscrew Route
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road recommended for high clearance only
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- The notoriously bad forest road claimed another victim as a Toyota RAV4 in our party got a flat tire on the way in. My Honda SUV had no problems – expect a few sections of deeply pitted road and door scratches - the worst sections are the second and third switchbacks near the end.
- Multiple large blowdowns on the first leg, once at the steep climber’s trail strictly follow the pink flagging until the boulder field then meadow sidehilling, snowfields begin at 5453’, some took out ice axes and helmets for the final snow climb to camp at the rock outcropping at 5950’. There was a trickle of water at camp that could be filter-pumped for everyone.
- Room for five bivys/tents at the snow-free camp spot, prob could fit 1-2 more with some creativity.
- Snow on the glacier was well consolidated early but became softer as the heat picked up on Sunday. Crampons were necessary for the climb as early firm then later slippery/slushy snow with steep run-out.
- Crevasses are opening but were easily navigable as of today. We took the “low” route and kicked steps as the first team on the glacier at 5 am.
- The summit base/unroped area at 7330’ is snow-free. The corkscrew scramble has a pretty clear climber’s trail for 75%, is snow-free except for the “dirty gully” - tack climber’s right to regain the route with 1-2 exposed moves. (See photos below.)
- Our group found the scramble route solidly Class 3 with good hand-holds, a couple of exposed movements but nothing scary. (Note: our team had fairly experienced scramblers, beginners have been known to feel airiness, esp. in foggier or wetter conditions.)
- The famed “bear hug move” on the ridge 100 feet from the summit has very solid hand cracks on either side. The final 15 feet of scrambling to the summit took some consideration though we did find a side scramble option climber’s left.
- Room for five at the jagged summit. Some of the best views ever in the PNW. One person thought it rivaled Sahale for views in all directions. Summit registry is completely waterlogged and ruined as of today – someone please bring up another!
Our group had initially planned to do Sloan overnight on Friday-Saturday but agreed to bump it to Sat-Sunday, which worked out – it was still wet as we headed out Saturday at 1 pm. I’d coordinated with another Mountaineers group who were doing a one-day push on Sunday; in fact, we ran into each other.
Our team of five carried 27-35# overnight packs, which was definitely felt on the approach through the many large blowdowns, devil’s club muggings, and branch attacks. We didn’t take it personally, just keep slogging up. Long-sleeves and pants were the right choice. Not much running water until snowfields at 5453’.
The steep climber's trail starting at 3535' (1.07m / 1373) felt very Mailbox-like. Don't try to DIY or get clever. Follow the pink flagging. Seriously: just follow it.
Took a few breaks and switched from approach shoes to three-season boots at semi-consolidated snow at 5453’.
From here, running water abounds from glacier/snow melt, and there was a trickle of water at camp, which meant we could filter-pump all water and not have to melt any snow. (Thank you, Felix!) Seriously chilly whiteout weather engulfed us as camp and kitchen were set up, but I felt confident from analyzing the forecast that the wind would die down and sunrise would be clear.
Because our team had a couple of second year Basic/Glacier grads whom I did not know, I did a glacier travel review and discussed the plan and expectations for tomorrow. To sleep by 9 pm.
Our group had really solid participants so instructing was minimal. The rope leader was phenomenal. Everyone pitched in, contributed, adapted, and communicated well all trip – could not have asked for a better team for a mentored climb.
We awoke at 4-4:15 am to an unreal cloud inversion and sunrise. Lugging heavy packs was now long forgotten - this was the reason for the overnight!
We prepped, put on crampons, walked 200’ up the snowfield to a rock band and roped up/partner-checked. Our group was the only one on the glacier in the orange warmth of this Sunday morning. Looking back at the team as I was out front and seeing them with Glacier Peak back-lit in the sunrise was unforgettable.
I consulted with our two rope teams on navigation en route, and we opted to follow the “low” route instead climbing the "high" route fall line and running parallel to the rock wall. A faint boot pack was noticeable from the previous weekend (info I’d requested on PNW Peakbaggers). Crevasses are starting to open but were easily navigable.
We safely swapped lead teams and continued to the base of the rock scramble at 7330’.
Once at the base of the summit, we un-roped, left harnesses and ropes, and followed the well-defined climber’s path around the Corkscrew (some brief snow on the trail but no big deal), a couple of moments of exposure but nothing jarring. Our group reached what some trip reports call the “dirty gully” at 7470’, which is currently filled with snow, so we tacked climber’s right and made 1-2 airy moves – one which resembled the whaleback on SEWS - to regain the gully.
Up through a second, tamer gully - just follow the heather goat path up. Our team found it reliably Class 3 scrambling the whole way – nothing Class 4 in our opinion, but our team had pretty confident scramblers. Find plentiful handholds and footholds. Finally, the summit traverse was reached - not as exposed as advertised if you stay climber’s left instead of au cheval, the bear hug move 100’ from the summit has good handholds and cracks.
The final 15 feet over the top took some careful shifting and balance - one party member found a back-door way climber’s left. Room for five at the jagged summit, where we took pictures and gawked for 15 mins, and even spotted the trailing Mountaineers group on the glacier far below. (We waved just in case.)
Take care coming off the first 10-15' of the summit.
We descended carefully and back down the alt dirty gully route.
We started to encounter more parties, and by the time we reached the base to re-rope, there were 3-4 parties ready to scramble. So glad for the early start! We chatted with the other Mounties group for a bit then headed back down the now Sloan Superhighway, observing all kinds of curious roping techniques - from no coils on either climber to 10 feet of distance between climbers. That could not dampen the good mood and vibe from everyone on the mountain today, and we descended to camp in giddy spirits.
Took an hour to break camp and figure how to support our teammate with the flat tire. Descending the snow slope from camp was no joke with more kicking in solid steps for 50’ to the bottom then over to the tarn. It suddenly became very warm as the tarn/saddle was reached so we filled up. Then to the meadow sidehill then the boulder field back to the slope of death. Took more frequent breaks though the insects were out by then.
A couple we’d been passing and re-passing since day one found us once again – You guys AGAIN!? We took pictures and laughed and wished them well. On certain magical days when the weather and spirit is just right, a whole mountain can feel like a community, each party greeting the other as if part of the same big group. All the training, planning, emails, cancellations, and worry pays off in days like this.
I held an early trip debrief in the forest then a special discussion on how to mitigate the flat tire once back to the parking lot. Fortunately, two team members got the spare on the Toyota.
The Toyota followed my SUV slowly down down down the road from hell – perhaps the crux of the trip. (BTW, the driver got all the way home and texted me later – all good!)
We convened in Darrington for the first cell service in 30 hrs and compared junk food choices in the heat. Back at Ash Way Park & Ride, we ran into a member from the other Mounties party, which seemed like a final cool coincidence on this memorable climbing weekend.
Total mileage/gain: 10.79m, 5311’
TH-camp (w/ overnight packs): 4:41
Camp-summit (breaking trail): 3:13
Camp-summit-trailhead (incl. breaking camp+, moderate pace): 11 hrs.
Caltopo track with accurate waypoints/distances/times available by request or find on Peakbagger.