Basic Glacier Climb - Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Glacier

Trip Report: Silver Star Mountain via Silver Star Glacier

Climb Dates: June 13–14 Climb Type: Bulger Peak | Early Season Glacier Climb Result: Successful

Trip Objective

This early-season objective was chosen based on likelihood of good conditions earlier in the season and the Silver Star Glacier route presented a new challenge for both leaders and students alike.  

Route

Approach (June 13): Departed the trailhead at 12:30 (30 mins later than expected based on some car trouble) and ascended the climber's trail to Burgundy Col. We encountered no snow en route to the col, with the water crossing presenting only a minor challenge, easily managed through teamwork and shared trekking poles. We did not see running water at the standard 6400’ campsite and continued on to the col with an arrival time around 5:30 PM. We encountered a light rain for 1.5 hours of the ascent to the col. At the col, there are 3-4 bivy sites with 1 site large enough for at least a 2 person tent. I would not advise camping in this location with any wind higher than a breeze.

Snow on the backside of Burgundy Col was soft and consolidated—perfect conditions for descending to the snowfield below the Chianti Spires. Anticipated water sources below the col were patchy; while the expected stream near 6400’ was dry, we located trickling water at 7200’ based on a recent trip report. Given stronger-than-expected winds at 7800’, we shifted camp slightly lower for better wind protection, sending one team member up to collect water and we camped below the chianti spires in the flat snowfield amongst the rocks. We arrived at camp around 5:50 and set up.

Summit Day (June 14): We woke to hard, consolidated snow, nearly “bullet-proof”. We left camp at 4:25 am and headed up the snowfield to the start of the glacier. The traverse was tougher under the hard snow, but the team managed this well. We filled water again at 7800’ feet and roped up at the same time before the glacier to be efficient at 5:20 am. We moved up the glacier smoothly over minor crevasses. The glacier is relatively steep up to rock section, but easily manageable. Arrival time at the rocks was 7:20 am. The most technical challenge was the transition from glacier to rock: steep snow meeting a moat and class 3–4 terrain. The leaders coached others through the awkward moves where needed.

The class 3 scramble was dry and straightforward, although we bypassed an exposed traverse by entering slightly higher. The summit block provided space to rest and a class 4 chimney led to the true summit, which the leaders ascended at 7:30 am. Participants elected to remain just below.

A clean rappel returned us to the snow after spending time on the summit admiring views and eating food. Snow remained firmer than hoped, so the group carefully downclimbed facing in – this was slower than anticipated. We returned to camp ~30 minutes behind schedule but ahead of turnaround time. After packing, we reascended to Burgundy Col and descended cautiously through unstable rock and kitty litter. This descent on the kitty litter from burgundy col took a lot more time than anticipated (3.75 hrs). The remaining descent to the trailhead was uneventful, with sunshine and no weather surprises. Returned to vehicles at 3:45 PM. All in all, a super fun dynamic climb in the north cascades that I would easily recommend to others.