Trip Report
Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Hood/Palmer Glacier
Climbing the south side in late June is less consistent then the past and with snow coverage changing earlier
Doug Brittain
- Sat, Jun 28, 2025 — Sun, Jun 29, 2025
- Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Hood/Palmer Glacier
- Mount Hood/South Side
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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There is no snow along the climbers trail until after Silcox hut. From Silcox to top of the palmer lifted the snow is groomed and firm overnight. Post the Palmer lift the snow steepens and remain fairly firm given the overnight temps were 39 degrees, the skies were clear so it allow the snow to refreeze. solid snow coverage to DK. where there is a crevasse opened at the top of White river glacier. This can be avoided on the left side where you will encounter volcanic rock to reach the snow of the hogs back. Beyond this, there is rock exposure on the north side of the hogsback and the normal rime towers are exposes rock going into the old chute.
Our journey began at the Timberline parking lot on June 28th, as the sun dipped below the horizon. The excitement was palpable as we gathered at 10 PM to discuss gear and prepare for our midnight ascent. With adrenaline pumping, we were ready to conquer the mountain. However, a last-minute update from the climbing ranger blog altered our plans. The blog warned of severe rockfall risks due to the upper segment of the Old Chute being completely melted out, leaving loose rocks poised to tumble down the mountain.
Safety was our priority, but our thirst for adventure remained unquenched. We decided to push forward, aiming to gain valuable experience while avoiding the summit's hazards. Our goal was to reach the Hogsback or venture lower into Devil’s Kitchen. Armed with all the necessary gear, including ropes, pickets, and ice screws, we set off at 10:45 PM, knowing we might not need them but eager to be prepared.
Our pace was blissful, and by 11:25 PM, we arrived at Silcox Hut. The mountain beckoned, but we wisely slowed our pace to ensure we reached Devil’s Kitchen at dawn, ready to witness the breathtaking morning light. As we ascended from Silcox to Palmer Lift, the snow beneath our feet was firm yet forgiving, allowing us to practice the French, German, and American steps. In line formation, we honed our technique, working as a team to conquer the snow slope.
At 8,100 feet, the snow grew firmer, prompting us to transition to crampons. A brief respite at 8,500 feet, atop Palmer Lift, fueled us for the next leg of our journey. With three hours to Devil’s Kitchen ahead, we planned a break after 90 minutes of hiking. As the climb steepened at 9,200 feet, we swapped trekking poles for ice axes, ready to tackle the challenge.
Reaching Devil’s Kitchen, we paused to soak in the moment before venturing onto the Hogsback, our final climbing altitude of 10,400 feet. From this vantage point, the exposed Old Chute confirmed our decision to avoid the hazard zone. The descent was smooth, with firm snow conditions and intermittent breaks to savor the experience.
In the end, our adventure was a resounding success. We spent hours mastering the Palmer Glacier and White River Glacier, navigating the bergschrund in Devil’s Kitchen, and topping out on the Hogsback—all while perfecting our snow travel techniques.