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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - The Tooth/South Face

route essentially snow free

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

used snowshoes for parts of the approach and deproach, could have done without, but they saved a little time.  maybe not worth the weight.  

used a shovel and ice axe to excavate part of the moat to make it easier.  asa climbed up first and gave us all a knotted handline to aid our ascent out of the moat.

one small patch of easily avoidable snow on climbing route that will be gone shortly.   a couple of the longtime fixed gear pieces have been removed.

after summiting, we set up the tooth climbing gym and did laps on different routes up the last pitch.  fortunately we're members of the tooth climbing club and did not have pay day rates :>)

great day. sunny and fun.  4 students did their first alpine rock climb and one leader did his first alpine rock lead :>)

we did a double 50m rope rap from the base of the climbing route down the ne gully so we could avoid dealing with undermined snow (where the snow meets the at the beginning of the scramble to the 1st pitch) and to avoid dealing with or rapping the moat.

  3:32 car to base of climb(including ~30min messing with moat )  665
  7:06 climb to summit, summit stay, rap, return to base of climb, rap to the east
  1:40 from last rap to car
12:19  car to car  

ice axe, 3 50m ropes, one 60m rope, harness, helmet, rock shoes, snowshoes, shovel
cams placed: .5, #1 cams (placed #1 on 1st pitch and last pitch), (placed .5 on 1st pitch)
nuts placed: blue 9
cams brought: blue alien, (qty 2).5, .75, 1
nuts brought: blue 9
brought 4 single slings/quickdraws, 2 double runners
equipment brought, but not used: crampons