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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - McMillan Spire/West Ridge

Mostly snow above 5000 ft, but snow is melting fast!

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The trail from the car park was easy to follow, brush covering it in places. The two creek crossings were OK, we were able to find rocks to cross on at both. The faint climbers trail from the 4 mile turnoff was mostly easy to follow, as we got higher it was at times covered in snow making it harder to follow. But the root-pull section is easy to identify. Once out of the forest the rest of the way to Terror Basin was on snow, only occasionally crossing rocks. At the notch we were greeted by a huge cornice. We found a way down on the left side by down climbing  steep snow and then traversing below the cornice to a rock band from which we could plunge step the rest of the way to camp. 

    The basin is still mostly covered in snow. There was two tent spots melted out on rocks by a little creek.  Also, some non snow bivvy spots. Summit day was on snow up to the notch then a fun loose scramble to the summit. The summit scramble did have sections of snow where we needed our ice axes again. 

    The snow is melting really fast and some of the snow bridges we crossed on the way in was melted out on the way out. Be careful when crossing snow-bridges on top of creeks.