Backpack - Northern Loop (Mount Rainier)

We picked up permits for group sites at James Camp, Carbon River, and Mystic Lake, giving us plenty of margin to explore beyond our itinerary and linger in beautiful places. Having 2 leaders and a couple of radios made it reasonable for our group of 8 to split up at times.

We started bright and early Saturday morning -- at 6:45AM we were third in line at White River Ranger Station to pick up permits. By the time we left the station around 7:45 they warned us that parking was already quite full. We squeezed into some of the last spots in the lot around 8:15 and hit the trail around 9.

Day 1 started with expansive views and impressive wildflower displays as we traversed from Sunrise Rim past Frozen Lake, and down through Berkeley Park. After a lunch stop at Grand Park, we continued down to the west fork White River, which was thundering with summer snowmelt. Thankfully the bridges were all in place. We crossed without incident and then stopped to soak our hot, tired feet before our final ascent to camp. This glacial creek is not a suitable place to filter water. The ranger had pointed out Van Horn Falls at 3500' on the map as a water source, but the topo map and reality told a different story -- the true water source is right where the falls meets White River and not 500' uphill. We arrived at camp by late afternoon, thirsty and grateful for easy access to Van Horn Creek. Warned that this group site was quite small, we planned to be creative with tents. We were able to fit all of our tents in without much trouble, but also without much room left to sit together. We had seven tents total: one 3-person tent, one 2-person tent, and five 1-person tents

Wildflowers near Berkley Park,

Day 2  brought us to the "core" of the Northern Loop. Part of our group left around 8:15AM with a radio to explore up the Natural Bridge side trail, while the rest ambled up around 9:15.  This section was riddled with blowdowns -- at least half a dozen 'climb overs'. We met up again for a leisurely lunch at Windy Gap and then continued as a group up the Tyee Peak boot trail. Those who carried Ursacks were able to stash their food and larger packs for the side trip. This trail is unmaintained and occasionally lost to the growth of the meadow, but route finding is not difficult. When the trail disappeared, the group scattered to reduce our impact on the terrain. Most of the group stopped at the meadow around 6000' and some explored a little farther.

Lunchtime art near windy Gap

THe End of the 'trail' on the way to Tyee Peak

A hungry bear beneath Yellowstone Cliffs

Our descent to Carbon River took the rest of the day, and we arrived in camp a little after 6:30PM. At the Carbon River group camp we were again quite squished, but everyone found a decent and flat spot for their tents. There was a single bear pole for the whole camp, so hanging food was the tightest squeeze. 

Carbon River Suspension Bridge, mere steps before camp

Seven Tents In Carbon River Group Site

Day 3 brought us back up to altitude with one big uphill push and peekaboo views of the Carbon Glacier. We arrived at Mystic Camp around lunchtime and were pleased to find much more space to spread out and also have a decent area to cook and socialize. This group site is detached from the rest of the sites and has its own creek access, bear pole, and toilet. After lunch part of the group headed back to the lake for swimming, beach lounging, and bird watching; the water was almost warm. And part of the group backtracked to catch the unnamed trail that ascends from Moraine Park, for an additional 5 miles round trip and 1400'. They were rewarded with unbeatable views of the Carbon Glacier.

Day 4 was forecasted to be the hottest, so we left a little before 8AM, descending to Winthrop Creek -- where we were relieved to again find a sturdy, dry bridge in place -- and then up and up to Skyscraper Pass for lunch. Part of the group tagged the top of Skyscraper Peak before we started our last long leg of the trip. The final miles and elevation seemed gently rolling after the steep grades of the prior days, but were still quite exposed and hotter by the hour. We took just a couple of small breaks to cool off and arrived back at the parking lot before 3pm. 

Crossing Winthrop Creek

Skyscraper Pass

In addition to the unbeatable views of the mountain and peak wildflowers on our route, our party also encountered some memorable mammalian wildlife. Some squabbling marmots at frozen lake. One pika with a bouquet of greenery scampered practically underfoot. Members of our party spotted a total of 8 bears, including one mother with 2 cubs. And we even saw a mountain goat in our last mile before Sunrise.