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Trip Report    

Alpine Scramble - Mount Watson

Snow conditions were excellent. On the scramble route we ran into an 8 foot moat (at shallowest point) that couldn't be avoided. Rock head wall could not be reach for safe rock climbing.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The route is straight forward. The snow conditions on this trip were great and this was with a heavy winter snow pack. Ascending the snow finger to the col is direct, but beware of possible moat at top, that in our case caused us to turn around. There were three Intermediate climbing graduates and one scramble student on the Scramble and we could not  figure a way to get past the moat. The moat was under cut and eight feet down at the "best" location and could not exit onto the rock, which doesn't have many good handholds.

    I don't know why this is a scramble route.  Last year (2021) in mid August this route had blue ice, as the underlying glacier was exposed.  I've done the "Alpine Climbing Route" as a private scramble trip to Watson's East Peak and is a piece of cake getting to the saddle (col) between Mt Watson East Peak and Mt Watson's main peak without any climbing gear, of course timing is important. The scramble route maybe a reasonable route if snow conditions were perfect or as a winter ascent route.