Vasiliki Tower/Northwest Face

Two pitches about 5.3 to 5.4 rock climbing on a tower approached from Burgundy Col near Washington Pass. It's a face climb approximately 40 feet right of the Northwest Dihedral route on Vasiliki Tower.

Getting There

Drive east on SR-20 (North Cascades Highway) to Washington Pass. Continue to mile marker 166 near the sign pointing to Silver Star. Park here at pull-off about 4 miles east of Washing ton Pass. 

approach

Head down embankment and cross Early Winters Creek on logs. Ascend climber's trail on timbered rib left of Burgundy Creek, which drains the basin.  Easy bushwhacking if trail cannot be found. Camp in a bench around 6,400 ft near the creek or at the bivy sites at Burgundy Col (7,800 ft). Water is available at both sites until late summer.

If you bivy at Burgandy Col, traverse around Vasiliki Tower to the north side. If you camp below the col or climb this in a day, stay to left and approach to north side of the tower.  

Before reaching the north ridge scramble to crest the rib on climber's right.  Rappel into a gap between the rib and the tower.  The route begins across from the bottom of the rappel.  Gear can be stashed at the top of the rappel.

It is also possible to climb the gap between the rib and the tower, but the gully between is narrow with loose rock and not good for a large party.

Ascent

The first pitch starts with an easy face climb to left trending rising ledge.  Ascend the ledge just far enough to continue on the face.  If you stay on the ledge it will lead toward the north ridge.  Continue face climbing to a sandy bench.

The second pitch starts about 10 feet left (west) on the bench.  A slab with a good fingers crack on the left side makes for good climbing with good pro.  The slab leads directly to the summit.  

The first pitch is about 50 m and the second about 30 m.

Descent

Down climb the north ridge.  No rappels should be needed.  The north ridge leads to the rappel station and stashed gear can be picked up and the rappel cleaned.

  • Difficulty: Strenuous
  • Length: 2.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 3,850 ft
  • 7,920 ft
Map
  • USGS Silver Star Mtn
  • USGS Washington Pass
  • Green Trails Washington Pass No. 50
Activities

Upcoming Activities

There are no activities scheduled at this location.

Trip Reports
Resources

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.