The Tooth/The Tooth Fairy

A bolted alpine sport climb on The Tooth, a Snoqualmie Pass classic. It's 6 pitches of technical climbing 5.6-5.9 with a pitch of scrambling to the top.

getting there

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road and follow it to the Alpental parking area (3,100 ft).

APPROACH

Hike up the Snow Lake Trail about 2 miles to a talus slope above Source Lake. Traverse above Source Lake on talus or snow, staying beneath a cliff band. Just beyond the cliff band, head up a steep slope, getting as high as possible before crossing a stream. Scramble into the basin under the east face of The Tooth. Ascend this basin to the second notch south of the South Face of The Tooth. Climb through the notch, then down to the north and back up to Pineapple Pass, the notch between the South Face and the pinnacle to its south. Continue left shortly past the southwest face until locating a line of bolts on the west side of The Tooth.

In early season, an alternative approach is to hike from the parking lot up the valley on the left side of the creek, near Source Lake, ascending snow finger into the basin. If there is a moat, some scrambling may be required to get to the start of the climb.

Ascent

Pitch 1 (5.7, 6 bolts): Scramble to the climb's start, climb inside the corner, and move left face climbing with good handholds.

Pitch 2 (5.8+, 13 bolts): Move left onto the top of the face and follow a series of ledges along the top of the face east to the next belay. The bolts may not be visible until reaching each ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.7, 4-5 bolts): Follow the bolts up and left to the next belay. The climbing is easy, but with some lichen.

Pitch 4 (5.8, 7 bolts): Follow the bolt line up to a small face, traverse right, and then up to the belay.

Pitch 5 (5.9+, 9 bolts): This is the crux pitch. Look left for a bolt. Climb to a  ledge and traverse right on it. Climb up thorough an opening—expect some awkward moves. Then climb to the belay—expect some strenuous move. Use some longer slings to minimize rope drag.

Pitch 6 (5.6, 5 bolts): Follow the bolts to the next belay.

Pitch 7 (easy scrambling, 1 bolt): Look right for a left facing dihedral and a single bolt. Clip it and climb to the summit. There is no bolted anchor on the summit—sling a block or build an anchor with cams or nuts.

Descent

Down climb to the top of Pitch 6 and do 6 single-length rappels down to the base of the climb, or rappel the South Face.

Equipment

A 60 m rope and quickdraws and slings. Maybe a few small cams or nuts.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October, November
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft
  • 5,600 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass Gateway No. 207S
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass
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