Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Sherman Peak is a sub peak of Mount Baker with a high point elevation of 10,160 ft. The Squak Glacier is the most direct route, and has moderate slopes, with some steep sections.The route gains nearly 3,600 feet from camp to summit and a total of 6,800 feet. The Approach is popular with snowmobilers in early season. Times: 4-5 hr trail-head to camp, 5-7 hr Camp to summit.

getting there

From I-5 just north of Mount Vernon, go east on SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) and turn left on Baker Lake Road. Continue 12.5 mi to just past the Rocky Creek Bridge, turn left onto Forest Road 12. Go 3.5 mi to Sulfur Creek Road (Forest Road 13). Turn right and follow it 6 mi to its end at Park Butte Trailhead (3,360 ft).

Approach

Cross Sulfur Creek, through Schreiber’s Meadows, through timber, across melt water streams, and up forested slopes (switch backs) to Morovitz Meadows (2 mi). From Upper Meadow take right fork to Baker Pass. Head up on a trail to the crest of the Railroad Grade. Campsites are in trees behind eastern moraine around 5,500 ft, and on ridge east of Railroad Grade at 5,800 ft.  For High camps take a rising traverse to the East for 1.25 mi to reach Crag View (6,571 ft)

Ascent RoutE

From high camp make a rising traverse of the Squak Glacier heading for the south ridge of Sherman Peak. Ascend steep snow on the ridge to the summit of Sherman Peak (10,160 ft).

Descent Route

Descend the climbing route, or descend the west ridge to the base of the Roman Wall and continue on down the Easton Glacier.

Trip Profile

Segment TIME (HR)  ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to TH 2.5
TH to Camp 4-5 3,211
Camp to Summit 5-7 3,589
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to TH 2-4

 

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment including wands.

NOTEs

  • The upper snow slope is steep enough to pose problems if icy. In early to mid season, a direct line may be possible
  • Can also climb to Grant Peak, the highest summit of Mount Baker.
  • The entire route is in the Recreation Area so larger groups are possible.
  • There are many crevasses in late season.
  •  Lower sections of the Squak Glacier are used by classes in Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue.

SCHEDULING & PERMIT INFORMATION

  • If you are scheduling this as a non-course related activity, please limit your group size to the default party size. The maximum party size is for use by course field trips only, and includes both students and instructors. Group size maximums do not reflect how course field trips are run (in smaller groups of students and instructors), but allow for course leaders to register the course in our system.
  • If you are scheduling a course field trip, please contact our Member Services Team to confirm the field trip and any permitting regulations.
  • Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
  • Length: 13.4 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft
  • 10,160 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13S
  • USGS Baker Pass
  • USGS Mt Baker
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Hard Snow - Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Climbing Field trip: Basic Climbing Course
Practice your snow skill on some realistic snow conditions.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jun 30, 2018 - Sun, Jul 1, 2018
No Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant 4 instructors
Registration closes Jun 28
Bellingham Branch

Glacier Climb - Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Climbing Trip
A seldom attempted sub peak on Mt Baker.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Sun, Jul 1, 2018 - Mon, Jul 2, 2018
Prerequisites
5 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 29
Seattle Branch

Glacier Climb - Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Climbing Trip
Overnight climb of the Mt. Baker sub-peak. Mentored climb for Daniel Coate
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb
Sat, Aug 25, 2018 - Sun, Aug 26, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
5 participants on waitlist 2 leaders
Registration closes Aug 23
Tacoma Branch
Trip Reports
Titles

This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

  • Mount Baker/Squak Glacier
  • Sherman Peak, Squak Glacier
Resources

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.