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Mount Baker/North Ridge


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Mount Baker/North Ridge

A Grade II glacier ice climb with one step section.

getting there

From I-5 just north of Bellingham, drive east on SR-542 (Sunset Highway) to 1 mile east of Glacier. Turn right (south) on Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek Road) and continue 9 miles to head of Mount Baker Trailhead (3,700 ft).

APPROACH

Follow well-established trail to Heliotrope Ridge, then traverse Coleman Glacier to bivy sites at 6,800 ft.

ASCENT ROUTE

From Coleman Glacier campsite, travel as directly to North Ridge as crevasses will allow.  Avoid passing directly beneath Roman Nose and Coleman Headwall. Gain North Ridge by ascending its west slope, then continue up ridge as it steepens below ice wall at 9,600 ft.  This ice wall is the steepest, most technical part of the climb.  Above ice wall, the ridge lays back to an easy gradient. Near the top, make a leftward traverse at the final ice formation to reach summit plateau.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend standard route via Roman Wall and Coleman Glacier.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT) Distance (MI)
Seattle to Trailhead 3 133
Trailhead to Camp 4-6 3,100 5
Camp to Summit 7-10 4,000 3
Summit to Trailhead 5 8

EQUIPMENT

Ice tools, pickets, ice screws and crampons.

NOTES

  • This climb is quite popular and bottlenecks sometimes occur on the ice wall.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Length: 16.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,100 ft
  • 10,778 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Baker
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13SX
  • Green Trails Mt Baker No. 13
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