Mount Baker/North Ridge

A Grade II glacier ice climb with one step section.

getting there

Drive I-5 to Bellingham exit 255.  Drive SR-542 east 33 miles to the town of Glacier and get permit at Glacier Ranger Station. One mile east of Glacier, turn south on Glacier Creek Road (Forest Road 39) and drive 8 mi south to Mount Baker trailhead (3,700 ft). 

APPROACH

Follow well-established trail to Heliotrope Ridge, then traverse Coleman Glacier to bivy sites at 6,800 ft.

ASCENT ROUTE

From Coleman Glacier campsite, travel as directly to North Ridge as crevasses will allow.  Avoid passing directly beneath Roman Nose and Coleman Headwall. Gain North Ridge by ascending its west slope, then continue up ridge as it steepens below ice wall at 9,600 ft.  This ice wall is the steepest, most technical part of the climb.  Above ice wall, the ridge lays back to an easy gradient. Near the top, make a leftward traverse at the final ice formation to reach summit plateau.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend standard route via Roman Wall and Coleman Glacier.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT) Distance (MI)
Seattle to Trailhead 3 133
Trailhead to Camp 4-6 3,100 5
Camp to Summit 7-10 4,000 3
Summit to Trailhead 5 8

EQUIPMENT

Ice tools, pickets, ice screws and crampons.

NOTES

  • This climb is quite popular and bottlenecks sometimes occur on the ice wall.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Length: 16.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,100 ft
  • 10,778 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Baker
  • Green Trails Mt Baker No. 13
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13S
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