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Mount Baker/North Ridge


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Mount Baker/North Ridge

A Grade II glacier ice climb with one step section.

getting there

Drive I-5 to Bellingham exit 255.  Drive SR-542 east 33 miles to the town of Glacier and get permit at Glacier Ranger Station. One mile east of Glacier, turn south on Glacier Creek Road (Forest Road 39) and drive 8 mi south to Mount Baker trailhead (3,700 ft). 

APPROACH

Follow well-established trail to Heliotrope Ridge, then traverse Coleman Glacier to bivy sites at 6,800 ft.

ASCENT ROUTE

From Coleman Glacier campsite, travel as directly to North Ridge as crevasses will allow.  Avoid passing directly beneath Roman Nose and Coleman Headwall. Gain North Ridge by ascending its west slope, then continue up ridge as it steepens below ice wall at 9,600 ft.  This ice wall is the steepest, most technical part of the climb.  Above ice wall, the ridge lays back to an easy gradient. Near the top, make a leftward traverse at the final ice formation to reach summit plateau.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend standard route via Roman Wall and Coleman Glacier.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT) Distance (MI)
Seattle to Trailhead 3 133
Trailhead to Camp 4-6 3,100 5
Camp to Summit 7-10 4,000 3
Summit to Trailhead 5 8

EQUIPMENT

Ice tools, pickets, ice screws and crampons.

NOTES

  • This climb is quite popular and bottlenecks sometimes occur on the ice wall.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Length: 16.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,100 ft
  • 10,778 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Baker
  • Green Trails Mt Baker No. 13
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13S
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/North Ridge

Climbing Trip
One of Fred Beckey's favorites.
Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
Sat, Jun 8, 2019 - Sun, Jun 9, 2019
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant 0 leaders
Registration opens May 6
Seattle Branch

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/North Ridge

Climbing Trip
Priority for intermediate students who need an ice climb. Do not contact me until after
Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
Sat, Jun 15, 2019 - Sun, Jun 16, 2019
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants
Registration opens Apr 1
Seattle Branch

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/North Ridge

Climbing Trip
***Leader permission required, priority given to Olympia Branch climbers*** Do not contact until activity opens.
Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
Sat, Jun 22, 2019 - Sun, Jun 23, 2019
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants
Registration opens Apr 1
Olympia Branch

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/North Ridge

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
Sat, Jun 29, 2019 - Sun, Jun 30, 2019
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants
Registration opens May 1
Tacoma Branch
Trip Reports
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