Mount Baker/North Ridge

getting there

Drive I-5 to Bellingham exit 255.  Drive SR-542 east 33 miles to the town of Glacier and get permit at Glacier Ranger Station. One mile east of Glacier, turn south on Glacier Creek Road (Forest Road 39) and drive 8 mi south to Mount Baker trailhead (3,700 ft). 

APPROACH

Follow well-established trail to Heliotrope Ridge, then traverse Coleman Glacier to bivy sites at 6,800 ft.

ASCENT ROUTE

From Coleman Glacier campsite, travel as directly to North Ridge as crevasses will allow.  Avoid passing directly beneath Roman Nose and Coleman Headwall. Gain North Ridge by ascending its west slope, then continue up ridge as it steepens below ice wall at 9,600 ft.  This ice wall is the steepest, most technical part of the climb.  Above ice wall, the ridge lays back to an easy gradient. Near the top, make a leftward traverse at the final ice formation to reach summit plateau.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend standard route via Roman Wall and Coleman Glacier.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Ice tools, pickets, ice screws and crampons.

NOTES

• This climb is quite popular and bottlenecks sometimes occur on the ice wall.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
• Length: 16.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 7,100 ft
• High Point: 10,778 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Mount Baker Wilderness, Mount Baker Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12