Middle Teton

Middle Teton is the third-highest peak in the Teton Range within Grand Teton National Park. Immediately southwest of its better-known sibling, it is known for its classic alpine shape and the prominent black dike on its face, it offers routes ranging from non-technical scrambles to challenging technical climbs.

Southwest couloir

Alpine scramble, difficulty: strenuous 5, Technical 4

The route begins at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead and ascends through Garnet Canyon to the saddle between Middle and South Teton (~11,450 ft). From the saddle, climbers follow a climber's trail up to a bench at ~11,750 ft, where the couloir becomes visible. The route continues through the couloir, narrowing and steepening around 12,000–12,300 ft with loose Class 3 terrain. Around 12,550 ft, climbers veer left onto mixed terrain, reaching the summit ridge at ~12,650 ft. A final Class 3 scramble along the ridge leads to the 12,804 ft summit. The descent follows the same route. Helmets are strongly recommended due to rockfall, and ice axe/crampons may be needed early season.

  • Suitable Activities: Scrambling, Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Strenuous 5, Technical 4
  • Length: 13.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,000 ft
  • 12,809 ft
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  • Middle Teton - Southwest Couloir
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