South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

A popular three or four pitch climb with a short approach, two 5.5 moves but mostly easy climbing, a real chockstone chimney, and great scrambling. Scenic views of Liberty Bell and the North Cascades. Snow melts off rock early so climb can be done shortly after Highway 20 is opened in the spring. Times: 5-7 hr trailhead to summit. A great first alpine rock climb.

getting there

Take Exit 232 (Cook Road) off of I-5 at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and SR-20. Continue on SR-20 to the Blue Lake Trailhead (5,200 ft), 1.5 mi west of the pass.

APPROACH

From the parking area, hike the Blue Lake Trail about 1.5 mi to a clearing. Leave the trail at a minor stream (might be a cairn). Work your way up through slabs on a climber's trail, and then up across open country parallel to the stream. Reach the end of the ridge (on the right) at the southwest corner of South Early Winter Spire. Note that from this ridge, one could drop to (or approach from) the hairpin turn immediately east of and below Washington Pass—this works well when snow covered in early season but is not recommended in late season because of sandy talus.

ASCENT ROUTE

The first pitch goes up a short steep crack. At this point, either go right and up (5.5, stretch across slab) to a small tree or go left across a short friction slab (5.5 finger traverse). Then easy climbing up to belay beneath the whitish south corner that splits the arête.

The second pitch climbs a gully becoming a chockstone chimney for 100 feet with a 5.4 move in the chimney. Belay at bolts  above the chimney climbers' right of the tree. Note that in early June 2022, significant rockfall event in early June which left a lot of loose rock perched above the chock stone. A big thanks to  North Cascades Mountain Guides for clearing the bigger pieces of the rockfall and adding the bolts. There's till bits that can come down, so be extra cautious!

Scramble up blocky section (some may want belay) and exit left and walk in coils up a long meandering sandy bench. Cross an exposed sharp ridgeline (belay or fixed-rope) and blocky terrain leading to top of southwest couloir. Beware of rockfall from above. Traverse into the top of the southwest couloir and ascend it to the top. Exit left and scramble to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Hike down and rappel the climbing route. It can be done as two to three single rope rappels depending on how much is downclimbed.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Summit 5-7 2,600
Summit to Trailhead 3-4

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment.

NOTES

  • There was a significant rockfall event in early June which left a lot of loose rock perched above the chock stone. Larger rocks were removed, but there are plenty of smaller loose rocks still on route. If you choose to go up or down that way use cation. Read our blog post about the rockfall incident. A big thanks to  North Cascades Mountain Guides for clearing the bigger pieces of the rockfall and adding the bolts. Watch their video of the rock removal.
  • Do not ascend or descend the Southwest Couloir instead of the South Arête. This couloir goes just fine, but it has some loose rock in it, it is narrow, and very exposed to party-inflicted rockfall or to any rockfall from parties above, on the normal route.
  • Basic students may lead some after the chockstone chimney if desired.
  • Though many parties car camp at the trailhead the night before the climb, camping is NOT permitted here. There is good camping in Ross Lake National Recreation Area, an hour or so from the trailhead, as well as beyond Washington Pass in Okanogan National Forest.
  • Hang packs and items left at the base of the climb away from the base to keep them protected from goats and from rockfall.
  • This is a popular climb. Start early to beat the rush.

Information for LEADERS

Priority Climbs List

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.


  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,600 ft
  • 7,807 ft
Map
  • USGS Washington Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
This is a GREAT first rock climb! Mentored climb for Andrea Turner. Waitlist priority given
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sun, May 19, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
7 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes May 17
Tacoma Branch
Owen Gabrielson

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Basic climb of a classic. This is a mentored lead for Alex Bond.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Mon, Jun 24, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 19
Seattle Branch
Ian Dickson

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
JP SIG Priority Climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sat, Jun 29, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 1 leader
Registration opens Jun 3
Seattle Branch
Jared Pearce

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Priority to KC/DC SIG. Do not request permission until two months before the climb.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sun, Jul 14, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 4
Seattle Branch
Kiana Ehsani
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Priority for Josh Inman and Erika Feldman's SIG
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Fri, Jul 26, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
7 participants 1 leader
Registration opens Jun 1
Seattle Branch
Loni Uchytil

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Ashish-Daryl Basic SIG rock climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sat, Jul 27, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 19
Seattle Branch
Ashish Rawat
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
A great basic rock climb at Washington Pass.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sun, Jul 28, 2024
Prerequisites
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 20
Seattle Branch
Paul Wade

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
This is a climb for Everett Basic Course students
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Fri, Aug 2, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 1 leader
Registration opens May 1
Everett Branch
Wesley Thornton

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
priority to Kate/Ambrose SIG...open to all after July 8th
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sat, Aug 3, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jul 8
Seattle Branch
KD Dase

Basic Alpine Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
A classic that I haven't climbed since the rock fall and route change. Let's go
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sat, Aug 10, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 8
Kitsap Branch
John Gomez

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Prioirty for Everett Basic Students till June 30th , open for other branches after June
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sun, Aug 11, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Apr 15
Everett Branch
Khrum Kashan

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Participants must also be on KT climb the next day
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Fri, Aug 16, 2024
Prerequisites
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Aug 12
Seattle Branch
John Bell

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Part of the 2024 Seattle IB LDW Extravaganza
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Fri, Aug 30, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 1 leader
Registration opens Jun 10
Seattle Branch
Chris Swarthout

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
Priority given to Tacoma Basic Students
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Sat, Sep 7, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 3
Tacoma Branch
Aleesha Wilson
Qualified Youth Leader

Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Climbing Trip
An excellent fall rock climb with larch views for the approach.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Wed, Sep 25, 2024
Prerequisites
3 participants 2 leaders
Registration opens Sep 9
Seattle Branch
Mark Scheffer
Trip Reports
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