Sherpa Peak/West Ridge

Sherpa Peak via the West Ridge is a Grade II, 5.4 climb.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS

Drive I-90 to exit 85, turn left to SR 970. Drive 6.6 mi and turn left on Teanaway River Road. Follow north fork road approximately 23 miles to end of road at 4,243 ft.

APPROACH

Take Longs Pass Trail over Longs Pass, 6,200 ft, and drop down to Ingalls Creek, 4,800 ft. Cross creek to Ingalls Creek Trail (good log in ‘97) and go right about a mile to the Beverly-Turnpike Trail junction, 4,700 ft.

Leave the trail and ascend rightward across the meadow to where the slope begins to steepen at about 5,000 ft. Cross the stream and ascend the ridge, staying left of the crest. Around 5,800 ft traverse right, cross over the ridge and contour into the basin. Camp available at 6,200 ft or continue up left of cliffband and waterfall to an upper basin camp at 7,400’ on a big, flat rock amidst a boulder field.

ASCENT ROUTE

From high camp climb to Stuart-Sherpa col at about 8,100 ft. Aim for the notch closest to Sherpa. Climb ridge staying close to ridge crest for about 200 ft to a small notch, (class 4). Cross over to south side of ridge crest. Traverse big sandy benches and easy rocks to steep southwest face. Readily ascend broken rock to a small cave (one-third the way up face). The next section is the crux (5.4) of the climb. From here either move right to a jam crack on a flake which leads to a chimney thence to the summit ridge, or move left on small face holds and mantle into a gully that leads to summit ridge.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel the ascent route. Two single rope rappels from the top leads to a scramble to another single rope rappel followed by a final double rope rappel. Some single rope rappels can be combined into double with difficult pulls. Some parties also make a rappel down the dirty gully from the notch.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENTTIME (HR)ELEVATION GAIN (FT)Elevation Loss (ft)
Seattle to Trailhead 2-3
Trailhead to Camp 5-7 4,700 1,500
Camp to Climb 1 700
On Climb 4-6 500
Summit to Trailhead 6-10 1,500

EQUIPMENT

Small rack to 1-1/2 in, ice ax in early season.

NOTES

Best done in early season when snow covers talus and water is plentiful. Variations are possible to accommodate greater levels of exposure and difficulty. Rock is solid and easy to protect. Slow parties may need a third day.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 7,400 ft
  • 8,600 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Mt Stuart No. 209
  • USGS Mt Stuart
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Intermediate Alpine Climb - Sherpa Peak/West Ridge

Climbing Trip
A fun, moderate rock climb. Suitable as a first alpine rock climb for new lead
Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
Sat, Jun 23, 2018 - Sun, Jun 24, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closed Jun 21
Everett Branch
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