Ingalls Peak/South Ridge

A fun, three pitch rock climb on good rock with a few 5.2-5.3 moves and some exposure. The approach takes you through an Alpine Larch forest, and features views of Mount Stuart. Expect snow in June and early July, and hot temperatures by August. Times: 3-4 hr hike to route, 3-5 hr climb to summit. A great first alpine rock climb.

Getting There

Drive I-90 to about 1 mi east of Cle Elum, then go northeast on SR 970 about 5 mi to 0.5 mi past the Teanaway River Bridge. Turn left on the Teanaway River Road and continue 23 mi to the road end parking area at 4,243 ft, about 1 mi beyond the DeRoux Campground (Forest Road 9737). Car camping is available at the DeRoux Campground and other campgrounds on the Teanaway River Road.

APPROACH

Take the trail for 3 mi to Ingalls Pass, and then continue on to Ingalls Lake for another mi. Scramble to the notch between the main (north) and South peaks.

From just below this notch, traverse along the right side of the Dogtooth Crags, climbing broken rock and slabs to a broad bench just below the large red slab.

Alternative

Follow a slab-ramp along the left side of the Dogtooth Crags, go around a corner, and climb a knife-edge ridge).

ASCENT ROUTE

Climb the obvious crack for a full rope length lead to a belay at a fixed piton on the slab. A short lead up and left leads to the belay cove under the dark horns. Another short pitch goes up and right from the right side of the cove to a notch in the left skyline. Scramble to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel the climbing route or the Southwest Face route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Notch 3-4 3,000
Notch to Summit 3-5 400
Summit to Trailhead 4-5

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment and chocks to 1.5 inches.

NOTES

  • The hike in may be hot, but not especially strenuous.
  • Climbing is on generally good rock with moderate exposure.
  • Rope leaders should have class 5 leading experience, as the red slab requires protection and has several tricky moves in the 5.2-5.3 range with a 5.6 variation, if desired.
  • This climb is typically done as a one-day climb with a 6-7am start.

Information for LEADERS

Priority Climbs List

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.


  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
  • Length: 8.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 3,500 ft
  • 7,662 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Mt Stuart No. 209
  • USGS Mt Stuart
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Basic Alpine Climb - Ingalls Peak/South Ridge

Climbing Trip
A late season Larch climb for Basic students needing a BR for graduation
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
Sat, Oct 12, 2019
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 2 leaders
Registration opens Sep 16
Seattle Branch
Trip Reports
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