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Mount Torment & Forbidden Peak Traverse

Trip

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Torment & Forbidden Peak Traverse

This climb will tackle the Torment-Forbidden Traverse - a classic and complex alpine objective with significant exposure, route-finding, and varied terrain. This Grade 4, 5.6 route involves glacier travel, loose rock, mid-5th class climbing, and both pitched and simul-climbing sections along a striking ridgeline. Our goal is to complete the traverse over two days (picking the best 2 days of the 3 day window), with a bivy on the ridge. The key will be to move efficiently but not rushed.

Contacts

Chris Haenisch
Chris Haenisch
Primary Leader
  • Thu, Jul 24, 2025 — Sat, Jul 26, 2025
  • Seattle Climbing Committee
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 9.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,000 ft

Participants must be in excellent physical condition, comfortable in exposed terrain, and confident leading alpine rock at 5.7. Prior experience with long linkups or traverses is helpful, though strong alpine climbers with less traversing experience may also be considered. Familiarity with simul-climbing is a plus, but not a strict requirement.

Leader permission is required. When you reach out, please share your alpine climbing background, including:

-Your experience leading trad and simul-climbing

-Glacier travel 

-Your approach to fitness and preparation for sustained, technical alpine climbs

TBD

Route/Place

Mount Torment & Forbidden Peak Traverse


  • USGS Cascade Pass
    USGS Forbidden Peak
    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
    Green Trails North Cascades Ross Lake No. 16SX
  • See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports